PARIS--Dressier accessories to go with spring's dressed-up ready-to-wear were the big hits at Premiere Classe, the Paris accessories show that ran as part of the Carrousel de la Mode and ended last Monday. With all the glamour, glitter and shine at the ready-to-wear collections that took place concurrently in the neighboring Carrousel de Louvre, show action implied that an increased demand was in the making for accessories to go with next spring's key looks. Total buyer attendance for the Carrousel de la Mode was 5,826, up 20 percent from the March Carrousel. Separate figures were not kept for Premiere Classe. While not all of the 197 exhibiting firms jumped on the feminine trends, and a few stragglers still hung on to natural themes, the show did offer plenty of these looks for merchants to choose from. One of the classifications in which this was most evident was handbags. The movement toward more structured, less grunge-oriented shapes started last spring and appeared to be continuing strongly for spring 1995. Bags, which three or four seasons ago were done in floppy and oversized shapes, were looking tidier, with delicate details such as small bows and other clever closures. Shiny materials, such as plastic, patent or metallicized leathers, added to the new refined feel. Amadei, a Riano, Italy-based handbag vendor, was one example of a company taking this tack. It featured goods done in a shiny metallic vein, including a selection made from nylon netting in colors such as gold, silver and bronze ranging from $43 to $52 wholesale, as well as bags in crinkled gold leather from $82 to $114. After several up and down seasons, hats seemed to be helped by the new elegance. "The hat's back again and looking ladylike," said New York designer Patricia Underwood, who showed some pieces done in shiny cellophane straw. She added that snoods had been selling briskly for her in the U.S., "going well with the retro look." Other interesting hats came from London-based newcomer Helene de Reboul, who showed a slightly transparent gingham-patterned hat woven in banana fiber. Susy Krakowski, a milliner from Manchester, England, showed more traditional hats sparked with novel twists in straw-woven bows and ornamentation. The jewelry category was not as clear-cut in terms of trends, with some exhibitors still showing matte metal pieces in nature-oriented motifs. But others, including Paris jeweler Dominique Aurientis, did zoom in on pretty styles. Aurientis said that her colored crystal and rhinestone pieces sold very well. "There is definitely a return to sophisticated fashion jewelry, reflecting the glamour of the Forties," said Aurientis. Another jewelry designer, Robert Tateossian, reported that his business was very erratic but added that he had picked up new clients from "very odd markets" like Beirut, Lebanon and Andorra, Spain. --Fairchild News Service
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