NEW YORK
RETRO REFUSES TO DIE, THE GIRLS GET BIGGER AND THERE'S A NEW FASHION DEEJAY IN TOWN.

Tracy Reese for Magaschoni: Tracy Reese knows how to have fun with her show. Her program featured pages from a datebook with a different engagement for each day--and she showed the clothes to go with them. There were some great power suits and belted trench dresses for the working woman; ladylike twinsets and slim pants for the ladies who lunch, and Fifties-style floral dresses for a garden party. The bright satins and white dresses covered with red, sequined lipstick kisses, however, were perhaps a bit too heavy on the glitz.

Where's the Beef? This week, it's all over the runways, as a few top models are strutting a little extra poundage, which, in a season of skin-tight, fanny-hugging skirts, is hard to miss. And maybe those ferrets from the CFDA have been able to stop drug taking backstage--if there ever was any--but they've apparently missed a flask or two. Rumor has it that one model in particular is hitting the sauce between exits, and her step is a little less steady than usual.

Cotton Inc.: Heidi Weisel gave the Cotton Inc. show its status. She showed versatility and ease with pink piqué mini shirtdresses, cashmere cardigans and crinkled organdy looks. Noteworthy pieces from the other designers included Eric Gaskins's black and white column; Sophia Tezel's Lana Turner-shaped jacket and Sylvia Heisel's short, white trench coat and huge gauze shawls.
The show marked the second time Cotton Inc., the research and promotion arm of 30,000 U.S. cotton growers, has sponsored a joint runway presentation of four young designers. Last November, Steven DiGeronimo, Zang Toi, Sarah Phillips and Michael Leva were featured."Although last year's show was outstanding, I think the clothes that were featured here this year were more wearable," said J. Nicholas Hahn, president and chief executive officer of Cotton Inc., immediately following the show. "One of [Cotton Inc.'s] main thrusts is to gain more in the women's wear area, and it's designers like these that will help us."Betsey Johnson: She's almost an institution. Her party frocks show up at bat mitzvahs, sweet sixteens and high school graduations. This season, plastic gingham and Edwardian jackets, duchesse satin prom dresses and signature florals looked just right. Betsey even gave panties her own wacky brand of commercial trashiness--with models lifting up their skirts to show their panties. In a season of skinny belts and serious fitted jackets, Betsey's party was a blast.

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