MEMO PAD

CARL'S NEW ADDRESS: To borrow a thought from Douglas MacArthur, old publishers never die, they just move on to the competition. As expected, Carl Portale, former publisher of Harper's Bazaar, has been named publisher of Elle. He succeeds Diane Silberstein, who resigned this month to become publisher of The New Yorker.
Portale served as publisher of HB for 3 1/3 years and was replaced in August when Anne Sutherland Fuchs, the former publisher of Vogue, left Condé Nast for Hearst. At the time, Portale was shifted to director of special projects at Hearst, a job with few specific duties.
Portale will report to David Pecker, president and chief executive officer of Hachette Filipacci Magazines.
"I went through quite a few publishers at Condé Nast and Hearst, and even outside our industry," Pecker said of his search. "We're up 12 percent, and we've won back our second-place position from Harper's Bazaar. Our growth areas are retail and fashion, and when I looked at the business Harper's Bazaar had, it was retail and fashion. To take Elle to the next level, we feel very good that he's the right person."
Still, over at 44th and Madison, they're maintaining a stiff upper lip.
"I think Carl's a fantastic competitor, and I look forward to having him in the field again," said Ronald A. Galotti, publisher of Vogue. "I have competed with him for the last 15 years, and he's never won."

CHANGES AT VOGUE: Ra£l Martinez, art director of Vogue, has resigned to pursue other opportunities. He will stay at the magazine through the end of the year. Martinez joined Vogue in 1988 as associate art director and was named art director in 1991. No successor has been named, said a Condé Nast spokesman.

FRAGRANT FUTURE: Maybe all those scent strips had an effect on Kathy Neisloss Leventhal. The former Allure and Vanity Fair publisher has resigned from Condé Nast, where she had become corporate director of special projects, to work on the fragrance line that's being launched next year by florist and party planner Robert Isabell. Isabell said Leventhal doesn't have a specific title yet, but she's part of the executive committee with "broad" responsibilities.END OF DEPECHE: Dépêche Mode, the French fashion monthly targeted at French women in their 20s, is going out of business. The December-January edition will be the last of the magazine, which is owned by Troupe Editions Mondiales, the Paris-based publisher. Mondiales also controls one other fashion publication, Modes et Travaux, plus TV guide Tale Poke, Auto Plus and Studio.
Dépêche Mode's future was rumored to be shaky since June, when U.K. publisher EMAP acquired Groupe Editions Mondiales from Cora Revillon, the holding company of Philippe Bouriez, the former owner of Karl Lagerfeld's fashion house, for $140 million.
"It's a great pity, but we really did not fit into this new group. There were no real synergies," explained Margareth Figueiredo, Dépêche Mode's financial director. Figueiredo added that she is in talks with two French groups to buy the title, but declined to reveal their identities. Dépêche Mode has a monthly circulation of 70,000, but has been losing money for some time. However, the magazine is expected to end the year with increased ad sales. "We were moving in the right direction, though perhaps not quick enough," said Figueiredo.

DIANE'S SHOW MUST GO ON: When Diane Von Furstenberg took her friend Barry Diller to QVC, he was so impressed, he took over the shopping network. But as Von Furstenberg prepares to celebrate her second anniversary on QVC, Diller, who is selling the network, is preparing to leave.
Diller's departure won't put a crimp in Von Furstenberg's QVC activity. She has five shows scheduled in November, including Casual Chic, a knit collection; Silk Assets, colorful silk separates, and Gifts of Luxury.
Gifts, which will air on Nov. 6 from 6 to 7 p.m., will feature such "affordable luxuries" as his and hers pajamas for $98, a chenille cable scarf for $55, and Zodiac pendants for $36.
Since her QVC debut in November 1992, Von Furstenberg has sold more than $20 million worth of goods.

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