LAUDER BUILDING UP ITS RESILIENCE

Byline: Julie L. Belcove

NEW YORK--Estee Lauder USA is out to turn its best-selling moisturizer, Resilience, into a franchise.
Lauder is adding an oil-free lotion version of the firming moisturizer and a Resilience eye cream. Both treatment products will be launched at all of Lauder's more than 2,000 doors Dec. 26, the first anniversary of the original Resilience introduction.
Dianne Osborne, vice president of treatment marketing, predicted that the volume of the three Resilience items combined will "approach" that of Fruition, Lauder's blockbuster alpha-hydroxy acid lotion.
Osborne and other Lauder executives declined to discuss dollar figures, but industry sources estimated the combined products will do about $50 million wholesale in 1995. Sources estimate that the original product handily exceeded its launch projection of $20 million in the last year.
"Resilience has been phenomenal," Osborne said. "It has become our most popular, most successful, highest volume nourisher--in its first season. It's exactly what we predicted."
Osborne said she expects the cream, which is targeted at women over 35 with normal to dry skin, to remain the bestseller. The lotion, however, aimed at a slightly younger woman with normal to oily skin, could outpace the cream in warmer climates.
The company projects Resilience for eyes will become its top eye treatment.
"The most natural extension for this technology, because it's a firming technology, is the eye area," Osborne said.
The lotion offers much the same benefits as the original cream, according to Daniel Maes, vice president of research and development. The company promises both moisturizers will help prevent premature aging resulting from free radicals and the body's own enzymes inflaming skin cells. Lauder also claims both items will help repair that damage, increase skin firmness and reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
Because of its lighter formulation, the lotion does not moisturize as much as the cream, Maes said.
The eye cream carries with it the same basic claims, plus a promise to reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness immediately upon application with what Maes calls "soft-focus technology." This light-diffusing property is similar to that in Lucidity, a Lauder foundation.
Dominique Szabo, senior vice president of product development, said Resilience Eye Creme is the first treatment product to cross the line into cosmetics, offering illusion benefits normally associated with concealer.
"On the weekend, it's the only 'makeup' I wear," she said.
Jane Scott, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics and fragrance at Bloomingdale's, said the line extensions should be strong sellers.
"Resilience has been terrific for us," Scott said. "The whole firming category is very viable."
Model Dayle Haddon continues as the Resilience face. Beginning with January issues of all the major beauty and fashion magazines, Osborne said, Lauder will run two different black-and-white ads: one for the two moisturizers and the other for the eye cream.
Osborne called the campaign a "major launch" but declined to release the budget. Sources estimate the company will spend $4 million.
In an uncharacteristic move for Lauder, Haddon and her 23-year-old daughter, Ryan, will plug the Resilience line on a syndicated TV show called "Main Floor," according to Daniel Annese, executive director of treatment marketing. The merchandise-oriented program is scheduled to air Dec. 18. Resilience lotion is bottled in the same pink-tinted glass as the cream and priced to match: A 1-oz. bottle will retail for $42.50, and a 1.7-oz. size will sell for $60. A 1/2-oz. jar of the eye cream will retail for $42.50.
Lauder will promote the eye cream at its launch accounts with a gwp offer of a 1-oz. eye makeup remover and a 1/4-oz. Resilience cream or lotion. Osborne said the company's effort will include co-op ads, radio and mailers.
Beginning in March, Lauder will sample the eye cream by including packets in Resilience cream and lotion boxes.
Lauder began sampling Resilience cream this fall by including it in the seasonal gwp and in packets in selected magazines.

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