PARIS FROM A TO Z FROM DELICATE LACE AT CHLOæ TO EXPOSED SEAMS AT XULY BET, THE COLLECTIONS WERE ALL OVER THE PLACE.
Chloe: Welcome to Karl's bizarre bazaar. The collection he presented for Chloæ Tuesday morning was stocked full of the kind of elegant clothes the new Chloæ customer wants--and many she doesn't. It could only be Lagerfeld who covered the fashion waterfront from the most exquisite lace suits to the weirdest evening dresses dripping with sequins, beads and all kinds of paraphernalia. It seemed that Karl just couldn't make up his mind. Does he want his ladies to wear elegant slip-tunics over layers of ombréd chiffon? Or would he prefer them in flashy satin suits? It's all about pick and choose, which is why Lagerfeld always produces a large collection for Chloæ. One of Karl's biggest achievements is the way he took an old trend--the lingerie-as-clothing phenomenon--and gave it a fresh look. He started with little lace-trimmed knits, almost like Granny's underwear, putting tank tops over long skirts or stretching them into dresses. And his satin and jersey tunic tops, some of which were handpainted, were chic and hip, with a touch of the retro feeling that's all the rage. Karl is equally adept with soft satin blouses that are seamed to hug the midriff; snappy peplum sweaters over half-slips of lace-edged satin, and long, sexy jersey dresses that play up the bosom. In a series of delicate florals that look straight out of the boudoir, Lagerfeld does long, flowing dresses that open to the waist to reveal matching panties--an idea that will show up next week in his Chanel collection. That's the thing about Karl: If you don't find what you want in one collection, just wait another day.
Rifat Ozbek: Call it Cyber Chic. The collection Rifat Ozbek showed Tuesday afternoon was like an electronic jolt that had people both raving and raging. These are disco-queen clothes for Studio 94--not Studio 54. Skirts and trousers ride low, real low. Tops and bottoms are sheer, proudly displaying those high-tech gym bodies. Midriffs are almost never covered and neither are legs--the modern club kid doesn't like to dance in long skirts. And shoulder pads, inexplicably, were worn on the outside, even with halter tops. It all felt so hip and of-the-moment. Maybe it is. Certainly Rifat thought it was. "It's beautiful, modern, new and futuristic," he said after the show. Will anyone wear it? Sure, says Rifat. "You can wear anything in clubs now." But if your evening ends at 11 instead of dawn, Ozbek also offered some sustenance. Inspired by his new love of fencing, Ozbek presented some of Paris's best jackets - which almost seemed carved rather than tailored - and peplum tops that emphasized the body. And for those who want to take a little dip instead of a big splash, Rifat offers the perfect look: a midriff T-shirt of sequins veiled in mesh.Mariot Chanet: Take away the hideous hats and knee-padded stockings, and the Mariot Chanet collection was one of the best in Paris. These are chic and wearable clothes, but have nothing to do with the retro rage now overtaking Paris's smaller houses. Olivier Chatenet and Michele Meunier, the husband-and-wife team behind this fast-emerging company, have a fresh urban sensibility, with lots of clean tailored jackets, knee-length dresses and skirts and crisp white shirts. For the more adventurous, there were satin motorcycle jackets over asymmetrical skirts, scanty panties and wide-legged satin pants. There was even a fun workable gimmick: sashed knee-length dresses that could be unsashed to fall to the floor. Day-to-night in one easy piece.
Yohji Yamamoto: The Japanese influence is all over Paris, but nobody does the Japanese better than the Japanese themselves. In a dignified, elegant presentation at the Sorbonne, Yohji Yamamoto showed why he's been around for so long. The collection had Eastern influences along with trendier Western ones, including Vionnet's bias cuts and punk. There was even a nod to disco. Yamamoto sent out long black evening dresses wrapped at the waist with string; long, flowing shirtdresses closed with one large safety pin, and billowing black kimono dresses with floral scarves. One standout was a sheer white Empire evening gown under a flowing black cape. Of course, the workmanship was incredible, especially in the origami-like evening section, which was perfect for the fashion intellectuals, who gave it a rousing round of applause.
Nina Ricci: Myriam Schaefer sure knows how to milk an idea for all it's worth--even if it isn't a very good one. In her first collection for Nina Ricci, Schaefer showed an unrelenting fascination with bows and pleated chiffon insets, which she plopped at the back of almost every jacket and trenchcoat in the collection--just the kind of excess baggage a woman doesn't need. Schaefer, who was Jean Paul Gaultier's assistant for seven years, did learn a thing or two from her former boss--especially how to make terrific riding jackets and cropped tuxedo pants. But the collection just didn't have the hip attitude everyone anticipated.
Xuly Bet: With a mad crush at the doors of the Palace, Xuly Bet was an ordeal for everyone but the 1,000 groupies who came to see his usual brand of clubwear. The designer's body-conscious "Funkin Fashion" and a new line for Puma, were just what his fans expect: tight stretch dresses in electric color combinations with exposed seams and threads trailing behind. The professionals in the audience were less excited: Exposed seams are like exposed brick, tired and overused.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye