NEW YORK--Juniors are getting more junior for spring. "The most noteworthy overall trend is a shift away from crossover merchandising between junior and misses'," said Mina Charles, junior woven buyer at the Doneger Group here, considered one of the strongest buying offices in juniors. "The styles are more typically junior, more fun--shortalls and overalls, fitted and cropped shapes." "Anything that makes you look sweet and demure is in," said Barbara Fields, owner of the buying office of the same name, based in Los Angeles and New York, which deals exclusively with the junior market. The two offices gave their views on spring, following the Los Angeles junior market held two weeks ago. "The crossover approach," said Charles, "was a detriment to the junior business at retail. The separation is needed for the junior message. "The other overall trend is a movement toward a strong feminine look, both in color and silhouette. No more unisex, oversized bodies and slouchy jeans," Charles continued. Denim is essential for spring. "Denim-friendly is very saleable for juniors and it's a key part of our whole message," said Charles. IN color, pink is so strong that Barbara Fields makes it a special category on her buyer's "report card." "Pink is beyond a color," Fields said. "It's a whole trend or attitude. It involves little-girl looks like puff-sleeve shirts, logos with ABC blocks, little babies and phrases like 'baby love."' The short skirt shows no signs of dying, both offices agreed. "The short A-line skirt is the hottest item at retail right now in argyle and plaids and it will continue in pastels. There is a void in the market for a short knit A-line skirt. We are buying it as a volume item for spring," said Fields. Preppie is in for juniors, too. "We're promoting a country club, tennis theme," said Charles. "Last year it was the Adidas-stripe look. This year it's preppier, like the pleated tennis skirt and polo-collared shirts. But it's more than just basics. These silhouettes have a lot of interest in shape and trim," said Charles. To merchandise the popular layered look, the baby T-shirt and a looser "little-boy style" were key items for spring, according to both buying offices. "The number one item on my report card is the baby T with logos. And you have to have the right logos. If you buy the wrong ones, you're in trouble," said Fields. "The logos have to be distinct--anything celestial, like angels and stars, or love phrases and hearts," said Fields "Embroideries and appliqués are important statements; flowers, hearts, and stars. It all relates back to layering," said Charles. In pants, ease is the star. "The key pant is the pajama or easy fluid shape with a tie front in a linen blend. It's not a palazzo pant--the leg opening is narrow. It's worn with cropped looks and Ts," said Charles. In dresses, said Roseanne Cumella, merchandise manager for dresses at Doneger, "the key looks that sold last year are going forward for spring. "The newness is more in detail as opposed to shape. Drawstrings, lace-up details, polo collars, pocket treatments, suspenders and heart motifs are very forceful in juniors. "The overriding fabric in daytime dresses is denim, denim, denim and denim combined with knits and challis," Cumella added. There was disagreement over the slipdress. Fields said, "The slipdress has definitely peaked." Cumella said she believed it was continuing, but with adjustable lingerie straps. In addition to denim, popular dress fabrics are seersucker, terry cloth and both cotton and rayon in checks and plaids. Both offices warned against some trends that have not been successful at retail. "Sheers are not selling at all in the junior stores on a national basis unless they are double-lined in front or shipped in a heavier fabrication than the single mesh," said Fields. "Shine hasn't translated well in juniors," said Charles. "It has been disappointing for a lot of our clients. Hints of shine in items did okay, but overall shine was a problem. "The junior customer doesn't understand what to do with it; they think it's for dressing up," she said. "Also what's going to look old is very structured, career-type dressing for juniors," Charles concluded. "The key is item separates, mixing knit tops with soft woven bottoms."
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)