MOONSTRUCK: Consolidation continues in the French perfumery business. The French duty-free and cosmetics retailer Saresco has acquired the 10-store Paris perfumery chain Silver Moon from Hervé and Marie-France Kergrohenn. The price was not disclosed. The perfumeries will retain the Silver Moon name. With a total of 26 doors in Paris, Saresco has become the third largest perfumery chain in France behind Sephora, with 50 stores, and Groupe Marcel Frydman, with 40. Sales for Silver Moon combined with Saresco's 16 Liz perfumeries should surpass $43.4 million (230 million francs) in 1994, according to Saresco. Its duty-free business last year posted a volume of $226.4 million (1.2 billion francs).
PINNED: Avon chief James E. Preston was awarded the Croix de Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres recently in Paris by Culture Minister Jacques Toubon, who cited, among other things, Avon's role in sponsoring a radio series on post-Romantic French music. Pamela Harriman, U.S. ambassador to France, attended the ceremony last week in the Palais Royal. It was followed by a lunch just across the courtyard at Le Grand Vefour.
MAIL-DISORDER: Speculation that L'Oreal is planning to ditch its traditional mass market retail distribution in Germany in favor of a mail-order setup are "absolutely false," said Thierry Paternot, general manager for L'Oreal's mass market division there. However, L'Oreal is expanding its catalog business in Germany via Beaute-Créateurs, its joint venture with French mail-order house 3 Suisses. The catalog, which is distributed in France and Belgium, sells fragrances by Agnès B. and Michel Klein, hair care products by Jean Marc Maniatis and the Cosmence treatment line by Professor Cotte. It does not feature any L'Oreal products. Currently, Beaute-Créateurs is testing the German market with 20,000 catalogs, said Jean-Noel Rivoire, the company's managing director. He said distribution would be stepped up in February to eventually reach one million issues.
FILLING LAUDER'S TUB: Estee Lauder USA opened its first Texas spa last week in Dallas with a sprawling 4,000-square-foot Ponderosa housed in the NorthPark unit of Neiman Marcus. John Stabenau, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics at Neiman's, said over 500 customers had made appointments before the spa even opened and another 500 bookings were made the first day. Robin Burns, president and chief executive officer of the Lauder division, projected $1 million in first-year sales. "Dallas women and Neiman-Marcus customers will make this spa a hit," said Burns. "They're into fitness and taking care of themselves." The new Dallas unit is Lauder's first in Texas and seventh in the country. The company has four at Bloomingdale's and one each at Dayton's and I. Magnin. Neiman's is expected to be the top volume generator, followed by the 1,600-square-foot spa at Bloomingdale's New York flagship, where sources project a volume of some $800,000 this year. That spa opened in 1988.PARLUX'S PARLAY: Parlux has wasted no time capitalizing on Todd Oldham's appointment as creative consultant at Escada. "Todd has been getting massive exposure of late in the U.S.," said Jeffrey Dame, senior vice president of sales and marketing at Parlux, Oldham's fragrance licensee. "Outside of the States he was virtually unknown, but now because of Escada's status as a global player, the situation has changed." As a result, Parlux has accelerated its overseas launch plans for Oldham's first scent, Todd Oldham for Women. It was set to be introduced in a handful of countries next fall and in spring 1996, but now the plan is to launch in 30 countries in September and October. Dame also said the scent will be launched in March in Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel, Nordstrom and the Oldham boutique in New York.
FRUIT ROLLOUT: This week, La Parfumerie launched Natural Recipes Perlier Fruit Gels--a line of six fruit-scented shower gels containing alpha -hydroxy acids. According to Francesco Borghese, the company's president and chief executive officer, the exfoliating acid gives the new shower gels a point of difference and keeps the items in line with Perlier's treatment heritage. "Perlier has always been more treatment than fragrance oriented," Borghese said, noting that the gels will be launched in 300 doors, including Bloomingdale's, I. Magnin, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. Borghese projected that the new items will generate 15 percent of total La Parfumerie sales by the end of the first year. He declined to be specific, but industry sources estimated that would give the fruity collection a first-year volume of $2.3 million to $2.7 million.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)