PARIS--After spring campaigns that fairly panted with sex appeal, French designers toned it down for fall, opting instead for chic images that range from romantic to heroic and inspirations that range from formal portraiture to cinematic storyboards. "Obvious sexy is looking a little tired now," said John Galliano, whose ads for Dior last season featured an oily, sweaty Angela Lindvall in various contortions on a vintage Cadillac. "It's quite fresh to put clothing on rather than take it off." Galliano again worked with Nick Knight for Dior, but this time enlisted the stunt coordinator from the film "The Matrix" to put model Karen Elson through her superhero paces, cast as Pokemon, a Brad Pitt-esque fighter and an acrobatic Gypsy. The visuals, crackling with energy and, well, actual crackles, were inspired by comic strips. "We wanted it to be dynamic: to show that she is in complete control of her own destiny," Galliano said. "It's very optimistic. It's got a lot of energy and she looks strong." While not leaping over any tall buildings--or fixing any cars--Lindvall looks completely in control in Chanel's cinematic campaign by Karl Lagerfeld. Shot digitally in Biarritz, the campaign juxtaposes glamorous, but natural shots of Lindvall against images of the seaside, nature, roadways and architecture. The campaign, titled "Storyboard," will appear on double pages with four images. "It's like a Godard movie," said Lagerfeld, referring to the French filmmaker Jean Luc Godard, who is famous for such films as "Contempt" and "Breathless." "It's an evolution from last season." Emblematic of the shift from hard-edged sex appeal to a more natural, almost journalistic style in campaigns, Emanuel Ungaro chose photographer Juergen Teller for its fall campaign, which features Belgian model Anouck Lepere loafing around a London hotel. "We wanted to show something more natural, more real," said Giambattista Valli, creative director of Ungaro. Thus the choice of Teller, known for his gritty realism, and such poses as lying on the floor. "There's a distance from the clothes. They're not treated as so precious. She's lying down. She doesn't worry. The idea is not to be in a window display, but to be alive in the clothes and to live in them. Even the makeup and the hair is not so strict." Ditto for Chloe's campaign, which endeavored to make the model Kasia Pysiak "beautiful without any artifice--no makeup, no sophisticated hair." The campaign, shot for the first time by Vanina Sorrenti, the sister of photographer Mario Sorrenti, is the swan song for designer Stella McCartney, who is setting up her own house with Gucci Group. But the house described it as the most "romantic, sensual and sophisticated" she ever did, with the location, Notre Dame, echoing the Gothic influences in the collection. At Louis Vuitton, the house's communication director Isabelle Jordan-Ghizo said Patrick Demarchelier's pictures taken in and around Paris continues last season's travel theme. "It mirrors the theme we started in spring showing the full collection--bags, shoes and ready-to-wear--near recognizable monuments around the world," she said. "But this season, we wanted to be more suggestive by playing with the iconography of travel without showing exact locations." The campaign features models in unidentified airports, train stations and the Georges restaurant here. She acknowledged the trend to more romanticism in advertising. "I think recent films, like 'In the Mood for Love' and 'The Fabulous Destiny of Amelie Poulain,' which are very romantic, are having a strong visual influence," she said. Celine's Lucien Goddet, director of communications, said the fall campaign, shot by Michael Thompson and featuring models Karolina Kurkova and An Oost, aimed to continue with the sexy spirit of spring. "It is meant to be provocative, direct and minimalist," he said. "We wanted to shoot in the studio again in order to eliminate all material distraction and focus on the sexy attitude of the clothes." He said this season the house also aimed to feature more accessories than last season. Hermes's director of house image, Stephan Wargnier, said the fall campaign was meant to be "evocative of Hermes's commitment to precision and luxurious details." Shot by photographer Guido Mocafico, it features Hermes products juxtaposed with exotic plant and wildlife. "We wanted it to be poetic," said Wargnier. "We also wanted to tell a story by providing exact legends of the types of plants and wildlife featured in each photo." Three houses opted for black and white this season: Cerruti, Loewe and Jean Paul Gaultier. In the naturalistic vein, Gaultier's pictures, shot by Jean Baptiste Mondino, are not retouched in order to better resemble old portraits of famous artists. Givenchy, for the second season running, turned to photographer Annie Leibovitz. Featuring models Annie Morton and Kirsten Owen, it was shot in a mansion in upstate New York. "It's in the same vein as last season, but it is more romantic, more sophisticated and more mysterious," said Amelie Rouyer, Givenchy advertising manger. Some houses, including Celine and Givenchy, said their advertising budget would be on par with last year, but several houses cited double-digit increases, including Louis Vuitton. Chloe said it upped its media plan 50 percent.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews