Fashion week provided a fine juxtaposition, displaying slim, clean looks as well as those that were liquid and layered. With either approach, both work in a perfectly pretty way.
Narciso Rodriguez: It doesn't take rocket science to figure out that austerity is more difficult to manipulate than abundance. In trying to satiate the communal thirst for new-new-new, a less-is-more type of designer has one of the toughest jobs in fashion. Recently, working through that reality has been a particular challenge for Narciso Rodriguez, whose old-school reverence for the craft and subtlety of cut has at times resulted in movement too cryptic to appreciate from the runway. Not so with the collection Rodriguez showed Tuesday night. It featured the designer's minimalist mantra in a beautiful lineup that felt not only new, but, at a moment when so many designers here are going the fussy-lady route, necessary.
Typically, Rodriguez kept most of his cuts reed-thin and sexy. The difference came in the execution of his splice-and-seam signature, now more overt and high contrast, yet sans a single gratuitous stroke. The results ranged from ergonomic sensuality to a snappy geometry that at times hinted at Mod. For variety, he worked in structured and fluid fabrics, often inserting panels of one into the other. And though he worked mostly in contrasting neutrals, shots of pink provided pizzazz.
When Rodriguez digressed from lean mode, it was with terrific, structured coats with bold piping and with a surprisingly girlish dropped-waist cocktail dress. More often, however, evening was a playful shimmy affair with carefree tanks aquiver with paillettes — saucy digressions amidst a lineup of high chic.
Michael Kors: Michael Kors has a long-standing Ali MacGraw fixation, partly because her style was her own and not the painted-on stroke of a stylist. "She once told me," Kors said before his show, "that when she put that cap on and went out, she had no idea she'd start a frenzy." It's exactly that kind of polished, casual chic that Kors has made his professional raison d'être. After 25 years in the business, he still revels in the great classics of American sportswear, so much so that at this point he classifies some — cabled sweaters, peacoats, tartans and plaids — as "Michael Kors-isms."The collection he showed for fall featured all of those elements in full force, with references that spanned from the Jazz Age through the Ali-esque Seventies. And indeed most of it was turf he has covered before, which made for some quiet going. That said, there were still lots of great clothes. Kors is one of many designers this season embracing cold-weather fabrics — meltons, lodens, wool plaids, brocades and oodles of cashmere, but his is bulk-free coziness, lest one of his girls be mistaken for chubby. Thus, big sweaters went over skinny tops and languid skirts. In the collection's biggest news, these, along with a stretched-out rugby knit dress, sometimes reached the floor, which may be too retro a day concept for Kors' customer. But no matter, because she can choose from any number of alternatives, including lovely dresses of varying lengths, some with a flapper attitude, and one camel knit charmer accessorized with an argyle handbag and matching kneesocks. As for the mixes, there were appealing pairings of meaty outwear over sweaters with wide pants or walking shorts.
Kors kept evening relatively low-key, favoring the play of sparkles on black dresses with crystal sprays and a cashmere twinset over pleats peppered with paillettes. Just because she's dressing down doesn't mean a girl can't sparkle plenty.
Marc by Marc Jacobs: Move over, perky fashion "It" girl. A new, more introspective type is moving in on your turf. In his Marc by Marc Jacobs collection, the designer played to her with darkish layers built around pavement-sweeping dresses and skirts for a Belgian art-student vibe. The mood evoked a whiff of deconstructionist nostalgia with enough style — and control — to perhaps convince a new generation of girls that their everyday look can consist of something more than a flimsy top over jeans. The lure was in the mix, as the parade of alternative fluidity and volume (there was tons) was broken by, for example, the nattiness of a tweed coat or the chic of a short, lean gray dress. But then, the allure of this collection has always been its expansive DIY possibilities; here, Jacobs added yet another cool dimension.
Rebecca Taylor: Rebecca Taylor threw herself a delightful birthday party. "I wanted to do something special and intimate," she said. "Fashion week has been so intense of late — and not in a good way." So to celebrate her 10th year in business, she invited everyone into a bright penthouse space done up like an ethereal tea party in which to show off her pretty fall collection on mannequins. Taylor exists in a frothy, eternally optimistic world, where girls float through their days in sweet floral dresses and delicate lace camis. There were plenty of these here, often teamed with high-waisted tweed skirts or long, louche Hepburn-esque trousers. The Victorian lace blouses offered a prim but not stuffy direction, while the set of lace dresses, in cream and chocolate, will be sure-fire layering pieces for fall and spring. It was, in short, a great way to kick off her next decade in fashion.Daryl K: For all the rough roads Daryl Kerrigan has traveled over her 16-year career, she has rarely misstepped when it came to nailing what Daryl K customers want to wear. That's perhaps because of her experience, or maybe because she lives and works on the fringe of the well-heeled set, though they love her clothes, too. So with little fanfare — Kerrigan actually seated most of the guests herself — and to the melancholy lull of Johnny Cash, out came winner after winner. Tops were cut blousy, as in a black gabardine kimono jacket or a russet silk charmeuse smock dress edged with beading, while bottoms were narrow. Layering here was key, but the lightweight fabrics gave it a "I just threw this on" kind of feel. Indeed, today's Daryl K girl is smart, cool and doesn't require much fuss — a lot like the designer herself.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)