NEW YORK — Now in it’s 18th year, Atelier Designers in February will mount its 50th trade show.
“We have more collections, but we don’t have more space in the hotel,” said Atelier’s director Susan Summa, sitting in a suite on the 40th floor of the DoubleTree hotel in Times Square. “We have more European collections and accessories because they add texture and a great deal of color.” Multimedia jewelry, including pieces made from laminated paper, are popular. Bright pink and yellow as accent colors are big, Summa said, but “when the economy is struggling, we see neutrals and there are neutrals everywhere.”
“Everybody’s paying more attention to price points,” she said. “We cater to an older demographic. I’ve been hearing from buyers and designers that despite the fact that the stock market is up, our end of the industry isn’t booming. People are still very uncertain with the political situation and the threat of war.”
Erica DeMarco, who owns WOW stores (Wonderful Ornaments for Women) in Boston and Dallas, said she bought shoes at Ma Belle, “the kinds of things that make you smile. It’s the element of fun and differentiation we always bring to the marketplace, the real accent pieces, like Stacy Erickson handbags and Connie Bates’ contemporary jewelry.”
“A lot of buyers aren’t buying in depth this season,” Summa said. “It’s hard for the designers because they have to lower their minimums.”
Jill Heppenheimer of Toko Enterprises was representing three collections at Atelier: Begoña Rentero Contemporary Designs — jewelry made out of paper; Neó di Roma, handbags made from Neoprene, and Yaccomaricard USA, crisp cotton pintucked shirts and jackets fabricated in Thailand. “We saw many more stores and got a lot more orders,” said Heppenheimer. “People are being cautious. They don’t want to end the year with overstocks. There’s more deliberation.”
Cathayana artisan scarves by Min W Chiu are hand-painted and hand-pleated using the ancient Japanese Shibori technique. Chiu said this was her first time at Atelier. “The orders we got are very good orders,” she said.
Jianhui, who makes jewelry and apparel out of recycled wooden beads, has a mission that goes beyond selling his product. “It’s a project for me,” he said. “I educate wood factories how to do more recycling. I also have my own factories in Eastern China. I try to employ disadvantaged women and pay them 2.5 times more than the average wage.” Jianhui said he came up with the idea for using small square wooden beads to make jewelry by accident. “I was originally inspired by a carpenter who was throwing a lot of offcuts away,” he said. “Now, I go to furniture factories and collect offcuts.”
Judy Hargrove designs the Judy Tampa collection, which is made in Tampa, Fla. Hargrove sources fabric in New York and assigns one sewer per garment so they complete the entire garment from start to finish for a sense of continuity. She buys small runs of unusual fabrics for her “urban funky” designs, which include reversible raincoats, retro-style dresses and peace jackets, drab olive colored fabric with peace signs and other insignia embroidered on the sleeves.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)