NEW YORK — Now in it’s 18th year, Atelier Designers in February will mount its 50th trade show.
“We have more collections, but we don’t have more space in the hotel,” said Atelier’s director Susan Summa, sitting in a suite on the 40th floor of the DoubleTree hotel in Times Square. “We have more European collections and accessories because they add texture and a great deal of color.” Multimedia jewelry, including pieces made from laminated paper, are popular. Bright pink and yellow as accent colors are big, Summa said, but “when the economy is struggling, we see neutrals and there are neutrals everywhere.”
“Everybody’s paying more attention to price points,” she said. “We cater to an older demographic. I’ve been hearing from buyers and designers that despite the fact that the stock market is up, our end of the industry isn’t booming. People are still very uncertain with the political situation and the threat of war.”
Erica DeMarco, who owns WOW stores (Wonderful Ornaments for Women) in Boston and Dallas, said she bought shoes at Ma Belle, “the kinds of things that make you smile. It’s the element of fun and differentiation we always bring to the marketplace, the real accent pieces, like Stacy Erickson handbags and Connie Bates’ contemporary jewelry.”
“A lot of buyers aren’t buying in depth this season,” Summa said. “It’s hard for the designers because they have to lower their minimums.”
Jill Heppenheimer of Toko Enterprises was representing three collections at Atelier: Begoña Rentero Contemporary Designs — jewelry made out of paper; Neó di Roma, handbags made from Neoprene, and Yaccomaricard USA, crisp cotton pintucked shirts and jackets fabricated in Thailand. “We saw many more stores and got a lot more orders,” said Heppenheimer. “People are being cautious. They don’t want to end the year with overstocks. There’s more deliberation.”
Cathayana artisan scarves by Min W Chiu are hand-painted and hand-pleated using the ancient Japanese Shibori technique. Chiu said this was her first time at Atelier. “The orders we got are very good orders,” she said.
Jianhui, who makes jewelry and apparel out of recycled wooden beads, has a mission that goes beyond selling his product. “It’s a project for me,” he said. “I educate wood factories how to do more recycling. I also have my own factories in Eastern China. I try to employ disadvantaged women and pay them 2.5 times more than the average wage.” Jianhui said he came up with the idea for using small square wooden beads to make jewelry by accident. “I was originally inspired by a carpenter who was throwing a lot of offcuts away,” he said. “Now, I go to furniture factories and collect offcuts.”
Judy Hargrove designs the Judy Tampa collection, which is made in Tampa, Fla. Hargrove sources fabric in New York and assigns one sewer per garment so they complete the entire garment from start to finish for a sense of continuity. She buys small runs of unusual fabrics for her “urban funky” designs, which include reversible raincoats, retro-style dresses and peace jackets, drab olive colored fabric with peace signs and other insignia embroidered on the sleeves.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)