NEW YORK — Now in it’s 18th year, Atelier Designers in February will mount its 50th trade show.
“We have more collections, but we don’t have more space in the hotel,” said Atelier’s director Susan Summa, sitting in a suite on the 40th floor of the DoubleTree hotel in Times Square. “We have more European collections and accessories because they add texture and a great deal of color.” Multimedia jewelry, including pieces made from laminated paper, are popular. Bright pink and yellow as accent colors are big, Summa said, but “when the economy is struggling, we see neutrals and there are neutrals everywhere.”
“Everybody’s paying more attention to price points,” she said. “We cater to an older demographic. I’ve been hearing from buyers and designers that despite the fact that the stock market is up, our end of the industry isn’t booming. People are still very uncertain with the political situation and the threat of war.”
Erica DeMarco, who owns WOW stores (Wonderful Ornaments for Women) in Boston and Dallas, said she bought shoes at Ma Belle, “the kinds of things that make you smile. It’s the element of fun and differentiation we always bring to the marketplace, the real accent pieces, like Stacy Erickson handbags and Connie Bates’ contemporary jewelry.”
“A lot of buyers aren’t buying in depth this season,” Summa said. “It’s hard for the designers because they have to lower their minimums.”
Jill Heppenheimer of Toko Enterprises was representing three collections at Atelier: Begoña Rentero Contemporary Designs — jewelry made out of paper; Neó di Roma, handbags made from Neoprene, and Yaccomaricard USA, crisp cotton pintucked shirts and jackets fabricated in Thailand. “We saw many more stores and got a lot more orders,” said Heppenheimer. “People are being cautious. They don’t want to end the year with overstocks. There’s more deliberation.”
Cathayana artisan scarves by Min W Chiu are hand-painted and hand-pleated using the ancient Japanese Shibori technique. Chiu said this was her first time at Atelier. “The orders we got are very good orders,” she said.
Jianhui, who makes jewelry and apparel out of recycled wooden beads, has a mission that goes beyond selling his product. “It’s a project for me,” he said. “I educate wood factories how to do more recycling. I also have my own factories in Eastern China. I try to employ disadvantaged women and pay them 2.5 times more than the average wage.” Jianhui said he came up with the idea for using small square wooden beads to make jewelry by accident. “I was originally inspired by a carpenter who was throwing a lot of offcuts away,” he said. “Now, I go to furniture factories and collect offcuts.”
Judy Hargrove designs the Judy Tampa collection, which is made in Tampa, Fla. Hargrove sources fabric in New York and assigns one sewer per garment so they complete the entire garment from start to finish for a sense of continuity. She buys small runs of unusual fabrics for her “urban funky” designs, which include reversible raincoats, retro-style dresses and peace jackets, drab olive colored fabric with peace signs and other insignia embroidered on the sleeves.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye