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Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul changed things up for fall. After seasons of tableaux and still-life presentations, they staged a runway show for the first time, and also shot an electrifying bolt of color through their previously almost all-black collection. The color story didn’t change their ethos: rocker’s edge infused with opulence and intricate workmanship.

Their signature spider web knits and fishnets were interwoven with a rainbow of Lurex, beading and/or mohair yarns. Tiny hot pink glass beads zig-zagged up peek-a-boo tops and dresses; silvery white beads flashed on leather jackets and micro minis, and bodices and boleros were encrusted with a prism of beads. The beadwork was impressive, but even more so was the outerwear done in black merino wool fake fur, partially shaved and then cut out by hand in complex patterns accented with black leather. As Teboul summed things up, “This was all about color and touch. But in the end, it’s still actually a black collection.”

 

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