Nude was the news at Augustin Teboul’s presentation. For the first time designers Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul included color, a pinky beige, in their intricate crystal-encrusted designs — a move meant to tone down their signature Goth tendencies.

The collection was also marked by what the designers called a “retro futurist” feel, with padded velvet and sculpted wool forming a sort of feminine armor. Leather was elegant and dressy, pieced together for a mosaic halter dress, slim pants and a chic motorcycle blazer. Neoprene brought its own stiff volume in contrast to draped tulle and organdy waves with flamenco flair, while mesh leggings and bodysuits sprouted organic forms and knitwear was crenulated. “Mutation, transformations, second skins — what could a human become in the future?” said Teboul of their inspiration, thus the Dada-influenced glittering open-work face masks complete with trompe-l’oeil lips.

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