While Paris always flexes its fantasy muscle, the beauty looks frequently evoke the Holly Golightly theory: Life is a party, darling! And with a week that showed everything from sophistication to mischievousness to full-blown wackiness, every look had its charm, each requiring certain degrees of skill. Whether these trends will hit the real Hollys of the world, or even inspire the Plain Janes to experiment, time will tell.
This story first appeared in the October 8, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Fruit Juicy Eyes: Dick Page blended a quartet of gold, lavender, hot pink and blood orange at Céline, creating a literal eye-opening glow. Degree of difficulty: 3
Diamonds are a girl’s best friend: Well, rhinestones, anyway, which Pat McGrath meticulously applied in diamond and ruby shades to eyelids and lips at Christian Dior. Degree of difficulty: 10+
Eye’ll fly away: The rhinestones were only part of McGrath’s story at Dior. Feathered lashes about 2 to 3 inches long sprang from upper and lower lids, and the effect was nothing less than stunning. Degree of difficulty: 6, if you’re handy with eyelash glue.
Two-toned pout: A year ago, Val Garland glossed half of the red lips at Galliano, leaving the other half matte. This year at Emanuel Ungaro, she went one step further, with a matte fuchsia upper lip and a glossed brick red lower one. From a distance, it was gorgeous. Degree of difficulty: 2
Wigged out: Both Eugene Souleiman’s frizzy afros at Viktor & Rolf and Orlando Pita’s film strip wigs at Dior proved that a crazy wig for a crazy night is crazy fun. Degree of difficulty: 1. Level of confidence required: 10
Black eye: Black eye makeup factories the world over can relax in the knowledge that its usage shows no signs of waning. At Alexander McQueen, Garland gave serious shiners to some, and at Viktor & Rolf, black eyeliner appeared to have a life of its own as McGrath lashed it out and curlicued it way beyond the orbs. Degree of difficulty: 6
Bardot revisited: With a nod toward Vuitton’s new multicolored logo, McGrath was all sophistication, lining eyes subtly in burgundy, then brushing azure liberally on upper lids and partly along the lower ones. Now perhaps blue-shadow factories will see increases in sales, as well. Degree of difficulty: 4, with the right brushes.
Try this at home. Really: Simple looks at a few shows proved it doesn’t take a heavy hand to radiate. McGrath gave Stella McCartney’s girls a partied-in look by smearing the liner and mascara partly off, then delicately lined or dotted a pale mossy green on lids. Highlighter on cheeks completed the lovely glow. At Chloé, Garland used taupe and gray shadow, black cream liner and mascara on eyes, while bronzed cheeks and mouths had only lip conditioner. This, paired with Guido Palau’s laissez-faire chignons and bangs falling loosely, presented a most doable look. Degree of difficulty: 1 to 2
Benjamin Moore: Body painting, anyone? McGrath matched, and some would argue, exceeded, her Dior work at Galliano, painting the models’ bodies in red, blue, black — you name it. The rhinestones made an encore appearance, as well as the feathery lashes, this time in colors as well. Pita outdid himself also, rising to Galliano’s request for “hair with volume,” which came from colorful balloons, around which hair was wrapped. Degree of difficulty: 10 — at least.