When Gilles Mendel took on the task of designing the costumes for “Call Me Ben,” he didn’t do so on his own. He had the help of Marc Happel, director of New York City Ballet’s costume shop, who made sure Mendel’s garments were up to theatrical code. “Designers are used to seeing things in a fitting room, on a runway, up close,” says Happel, a design veteran of both Broadway and the Metropolitan Opera House. “Many times I take [the costumes] and stand at the end of a hallway and say, ‘OK, what you’re looking at is Row A. Most everyone else is going to be even farther away.’ You have to understand that a lot of the small details get lost. They have to be far more bold.”
In fact, two of Jenifer Ringer’s three costume changes had to be redone once the dancers entered rehearsals. “Gilles created this beautiful asymmetric black and gold lamé dress,” recalls Happel, “but we discovered that in movement, it didn’t work. It was too fitted on one side.” The new version, pictured here on the left, features nearly 25 yards of cascading mousseline, with the asymmetry now on the shoulders. Her tweed pencil skirt, shown at right, was turned into a wrap skirt to allow for those kicks and soaring legs; it’s paired with a cape jacket, which lets the arms move more, too.
Similarly, while Mendel’s resort dresses come equipped with rigorously constructed bustiers, their stage counterparts do not. “Boning is very uncomfortable for our dancers,” explains Happel. “Instead, the bodices are structured around this amazing stretch net from this company in Germany called Klaus Schreck. Onstage, that net disappears and all you see is the draping and pleating on the body.
“The amount of work involved here,” he adds, “it’s like re-creating a small Hollywood musical in the guise of a ballet.”
Assouline is paying homage to the late Azzedine Alaïa with a reprint of "Alaïa Livre de Collection.” The book is comprised of photographs of the designer's summer 1992 runway show with models Christy Turlington Burns, Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks, pictured here at right. #wwdfashion #alaia #tyrabanks
Fall 2018 accessories take on a painterly hue, with Nebulas Blue among Pantone’s top 10 colors of the season. (📸: @jonghyupstudio ; editor: @twallz21 ; stylist and set designer: @haideefindlaylevin ) #wwdaccessories
@americanapparelusa is relaunching the brand outside of the U.S. today, opening its online store to more than 200 countries. The company is also contemplating a return to brick-and-mortar, though details have not been confirmed. In tandem with the expanded distribution is a recasting of a social media ad campagn, called “Back to Basics,” pictured here, with a focus on diversity and a cast of models above the age of 21. Read more on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Exclusive: @britneyspears is continuing to expand her brand. The pop icon, who appears in @kenzo ’s latest campaign, is partnering with Epic Rights to launch a line of branded merchandise. Read @hernameislex ‘s story, link in bio. #wwdnews #britneyspears
The Duchess of Cambridge channeled Princess Diana’s look upon giving birth to Prince Harry, when she and the Duke of Cambridge departed the hospital with the new baby Prince this afternoon in London. #wwdeye #princeofcambridge
The new Prince of Cambridge has arrived! The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge posed with the 8-pound newborn. She wore a look from one of her go-to designers, @jennypackham. Tap link in bio for more. #wwdeye #princeofcambridge
Jewelry label @alisonlou has made a name for itself with fine jewelry that speaks to the Millennial market. Now @twallz21 reports that the label is bringing those playful ideas to a new affordable line of lucite hoops with the launch of Loucite by Alison Lou. Here’s a look from the line modeled by @emrata. #wwdaccessories
@sarahjessicaparker and @gilt are teaming up on a bridal ready-to-wear line. Tomorrow, Parker will launch SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker Bridal — and as part of the launch, Gilt will offer 15 exclusive styles from the SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker footwear collection that were designed to complement the new line. Made out of 10 styles, the line is designed for a variety of occasions, from bridal showers to receptions. Get more details on WWD.com #wwdfashion