NEW YORK — Clarins Fragrance Group here is poised to embark on its first Roberto Cavalli fragrance launch.
The U.S.-based unit of Groupe Clarins, which took the reins of ITF's Cavalli and Gianfranco Ferré fragrance businesses in the U.S. on Jan. 1, will launch Cavalli's Serpentine scent in April. The fragrance made its European debut last fall.
"When we were looking last [year] at the ITF venture, the exciting aspect was the Roberto Cavalli piece of it," said Benjamin Gillikin, president of Clarins Fragrance Group. "As we have watched in the past couple of years — on the fashion side — it became a driving business. We have an opportunity to build the fragrance business on the U.S. side."
For Serpentine, the distribution strategy is "the top of the market," Gillikin said, and will comprise fewer than 200 doors, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. "That's basically where [Cavalli fashion] is, along with his own boutiques and independent specialty stores — this is where there's an awareness of him."
Gillikin acknowledged that Clarins may widen distribution of Serpentine next spring. "We [will] get a feel, see where it goes," he said.
Although Gillikin declined to discuss sales projections, he noted that Clarins was aiming for a top-five ranking in the doors where Serpentine will be carried.
The eau de parfum, which is described as a "floral, ambery" mixture featuring accords of mango flower, mandarin, tiare flower, black pepper, frangipani, amber and sandalwood, was blended by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich.
It will be available in 3.4-oz. and 1.7-oz. bottles priced at $82.50 and $65, respectively. Two 6.8-oz. ancillary products, a bath and shower gel and a body lotion, will be priced at $35 and $40, respectively.
Industry sources estimate Serpentine might generate $8 million in retail sales during its first year on counter in the U.S.
To promote the scent, Clarins has slated visuals in retailer catalogues and store-specific sampling programs. The company also is working on booking a personal appearance by the designer at a Saks location in New York or Beverly Hills."We see [Serpentine] having a very positive impact [on Clarins]," said Gillikin, who noted that, aside from the newly obtained ITF scents — and its existing Thierry Mugler and Azzaro businesses — the firm also is focused on Everlast fragrances, a business it officially took over Jan. 1. "These are important new ventures for us," he said.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast