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Beauty Beat: Ferragamo Adds Touch of Charm to Incanto

Ferragamo Parfums hasn't yet lifted its spell of enchantment.

MILAN — Ferragamo Parfums hasn’t yet lifted its spell of enchantment.

The fragrance house is set to launch another one-shot scent, called Incanto Charms, which was inspired by Incanto, its two-year-old women’s fragrance, whose name means “enchantment” in Italian.

Set to launch in January, Incanto Charms is the third fragrance under the Incanto banner, following the introduction of Incanto Dream last spring. Incanto Charms will be launched in Italy and Japan next month and its worldwide rollout is slated to run through March.

Silvio Bertinelli, director of Ferragamo Parfums, spoke about the Incanto Charms launch in a phone interview from the company’s headquarters in Florence. He said he hopes the scent will follow the lead of Incanto Dream’s runaway success.

“Incanto Charms will follow what we have done with Incanto Dream, which has had great success in Japan,” said Bertinelli. “We think Incanto Charms will also have some Japanese market success, where Incanto Dream sold some 500,000 units. For us, that number is enormous.”

Asian success saved Incanto Dream from getting the ax, and Bertinelli said the company would apply the same business model it had for Incanto Dream to Incanto Charms.

“Theoretically, Incanto Dream was a one-shot product that we were going to finish producing in December 2005, but the reality is, we are still continuing distribution to some markets, including Japan,” said Bertinelli. “If Incanto Charms works well, the line will be continued.”

Both fragrances have a similar target consumer — young women between 20 and 40 years old — but Bertinelli believes Charms could attract different markets.

“We think that Incanto Charms will have more successful markets with perhaps less of a focus on Asia and more impact on the U.S. and European markets, with a focus on Italy,” said Bertinelli. Italian sales, he said, will be aided by an extensive print advertising campaign photographed by Tobias Zarius.

According to industry sources, Incanto Charms is expected to net $13 million in its first year of sales. In the U.S., where the scent will be introduced in March, that figure will reportedly be in the neighborhood of $5 million.

Alison Farn, president of Gary Farn Ltd., which handles the Ferragamo fragrance business in the U.S., noted that, while Ferragamo has appeal on the men’s side of the fragrance category, “we found with [Incanto] Dream that Salvatore Ferragamo women [consumers] identified with a younger, fun concept.” Referring to the appeal of Incanto Dream, she added: “This has exploded.”

Incanto Charms will be carried in about 350 doors in the U.S., including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Sephora.

Farn noted that plans call for the creation of a Ferragamo accessories collection, which is slated to be tied into the Incanto Charms scent via similar color motifs and visuals.

Incanto Charms, created by Beatrice Piquet of International Flavors & Fragrances, belongs to the fruity-floral olfactory family. It has top notes of passion fruit and honeysuckle, middle notes of jasmine petals and Ottoman rose and it’s rounded out by base notes of musk and amyris wood.

Incanto Charms’ transparent flacon is colored blue green and decorated with a bright henna-like design created by artist Sylvie de France. The cap is a pink, oval-shaped loop.

The eau de toilette will be available in three sizes, a 3.4-oz. bottle for $75, a 1.7-oz. version for $55 and a 1-oz. size for $40. A $37 body lotion will accompany the scents, as will a bath and shower gel for $30.

Incanto Charms will precede what Bertinelli described as a key signature Ferragamo women’s fragrance launch next September. Bertinelli said the company planned to concentrate on the U.S. and European markets with a worldwide advertising campaign for next fall’s women’s scent, including a television advertisement in Italy. The new signature fragrance will be designed to target Salvatore Ferragamo’s fashion clients — women between the ages of 30 and 40 years old.

Ferragamo Parfums’ other fragrance license, Emanuel Ungaro, will remain under creative control of the company following the early November sale of the Emanual Ungaro fashion house and fragrance arm by Gruppo Ferragamo to San Francisco-based high-tech entrepreneur Asim Abdullah.