NEW YORK — Frederic Malle has set his sights on Manhattan.
Malle, who markets a line of fragrances independently created by some of the top perfumers in the fragrance industry, is scouting locations on the Upper East Side for his first freestanding store outside of Paris.
"The first branching out will be New York," Malle said during a recent interview.
He anticipates opening a boutique here within the next 12 months. And while his three boutiques in the City of Light average about 600 square feet, Malle believes his first New York store could exceed 1,000 square feet.
"I don't want a shoebox on Madison Avenue," he said. "That's not what we are about. I want to do something a bit more glamorous."
Malle, who moved to the U.S. and established Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Inc. here in September of last year, said his long-term plan is to open freestanding stores in selected U.S. cities.
He also wants to build the business in Barneys New York, which carries the brand in five stores in the U.S. By yearend, Malle expects to be carried in a total of seven Barneys locations.
In the near term, Malle is set to launch in the U.S. his 16th scent, a men's fragrance called Bois d'Orage (Thunder Wood, in English). The scent was created by Pierre Bourdon of Fragrance Resources, who also created Davidoff Cool Water.
Bois d'Orage mixes notes of pimento and galbanum with angelica, iris, cedarwood and vetiver. The scent also includes accords of patchouli, karanal, incense and musk.
Bois d'Orage, which is slated to make its debut in the U.S. in late September, will be available in a 50-ml. version for $125 and a 100-ml. size for $185.
Industry sources estimate the scent could generate first-year sales of 500,000 euros, or $681,000 at current exchange rates.
Sales of Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle reached 5 million euros, or $6.3 million at average exchange, for 2006, up roughly 31 percent over 2005, according to estimates by industry sources.
Malle anticipates sales this year will again reach a growth rate of about 30 percent.Internationally, the brand's wholesale network includes about 50 doors in Europe and Asia. — Matthew W. Evans
Coty Appoints Macchio to R&D Post
Coty Inc. has named Ralph Macchio senior vice president, global research and development, and chief scientific officer, a new position.
Macchio, who joined Coty in 1992, was most recently general manager of the firm's research facility in Morris Plains, N.J., where he led the global research and development of all Coty Inc. toiletries, color cosmetics, fragrances and other personal care items, according to the company.
In his new post, Macchio's responsibilities will include "strengthening Coty's innovative capabilities while improving upon the best R&D practices," the company said in a statement. Macchio will work with the firm's Coty Prestige and Coty Beauty divisions "to tighten business development and strategies across product teams," according to Coty.
L'Oréal Scents Take Father's Day
Results for men's fragrance sales prior to Father's Day are in — and four out of the top five selling scents are marketed by L'Oréal, according to data from The NPD Group Inc.. During the week of June 10 to June 16, Giorgio Armani's Acqua di Gio Pour Homme ranked number one in sales, followed by Sean John's Unforgivable, Polo Double Black, Armani Code and Armani Attitude. The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. markets Sean "Diddy" Combs' Unforgivable fragrance.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)