NEW YORK — The latest stop on Jean Paul Gaultier’s launch tour for his new men’s cosmetics line, called Tout Beau Tout Propre, was Macy’s Herald Square Monday, where the designer made an appearance at noon to mark the launch of the collection.
Sources expected the Macy’s event, his first such appearance in four years, to drive sales of the entire Gaultier beauty brand close to $12,000 on the day in that door, with 35 percent of that figure generated by the makeup. Many customers — men and women alike — who stopped at Gaultier’s table at the Macy’s appearance, held bottles of the designer’s Le Male fragrance to be autographed.
Last week, Gaultier was among a number of designers and celebrities to promote their beauty businesses when he appeared Wednesday evening at his Madison Avenue boutique for an invitation-only gathering as a warm-up for Monday’s cosmetics launch.
Meanwhile, 10 blocks further up the East Side, Jennifer Lopez strutted into a throng of beauty press at a private event for her Still fragrance.
Then, on Thursday, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana arrived at Saks Fifth Avenue to launch their new fragrance, Sicily, as reported. That morning, Lil’ Kim had shown up at a QVC launch event for a cosmetics collection by celebrity makeup artist Scott Barnes.
Lopez, who spent Wednesday afternoon meeting privately with beauty advisers at Macy’s Herald Square, also met with Hal Kahn, chairman and ceo of Macy’s East, and Terry Lundgren, ceo of Federated Department Stores.
Gaultier talked frankly at his boutique appearance about sales of the men’s cosmetics assortment so far: “[It’s] not a big surprise that people would think [men’s] makeup would be gay. But we know already that, in France, for example, 90 percent of the people who buy it are straight.”
When asked if American men are ready for makeup, Gaultier replied, “American men are more open. [They] are taking care of themselves more and more.” Gaultier added: “The purpose was not to copy makeup for women. The idea is not to look feminine but to accentuate things like the color of your eyes, or your complexion — to look your best, confident.”By yearend, the men’s makeup will be carried in a handful of U.S. doors, including Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street and a few Neiman Marcus doors, according to Maggie Ciafardini, executive vice president and general manager of licensee Beauté Prestige International. By next year, she expects it to be in 50 doors in the U.S., including Sephora and Marshall Field’s. “It’s a very important niche for us because we’re definitely addressing a need in the market. The metrosexual is here. Whereas a man used to borrow his wife’s concealer, now the women can borrow her husband’s concealer.”
— Matthew W. Evans
NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden Inc. will close and sell its Miami Lakes, Fla., distribution center and consolidate all shipping, warehousing, logistics and fulfillment functions in its recently expanded center in Roanoke, Va., by March 2004.
The move is expected to result in about a 10 percent reduction in Arden’s U.S. workforce, which currently numbers approximately 1,000, and pretax charges of about $3.5 million related to severance benefits, outplacement services and other provisions for the affected employees. These charges will begin to be realized in the fourth quarter of the company’s fiscal year, which ends in January 2004.
Proceeds from the sale of the Florida building are expected to be sufficient to repay its mortgage, as well as the one-time severance and restructuring costs.
Savings from the consolidation are expected to amount to between $2 million and $4 million next year and between $4 million and $6 million annually thereafter. In a statement, Scott Beattie, Arden’s chief executive, noted the firm “remains committed to South Florida, as it will remain the home of our corporate headquarters” and also house certain sales, marketing, finance and other corporate functions.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)