Hardy Amies Sets Eau de Parfum
LONDON — Hardy Amies, the couture and ready-to-wear fashion house, is harking back to the days of haute parfumerie with Eau de Parfum, a fragrance meant to embody its Savile Row style.

"It's like an olfactory fingerprint of myself and the profile of the Hardy Amies woman," said Ian Garlant, creative director, referring to Hardy Amies Eau de Parfum. "[With Hardy Amies,] you know the clothes have been made for you, though it's not immediately obvious. [Similarly,] there's nothing immediately obvious about this perfume. It's not going to hit you from the other side of the room."

Like bespoke clothing, the Amies scent is meant to adapt to its wearer. "I was interested in creating a perfume that is in some respects classic and old fashioned in that it's mutable, it changes," said Garlant. "I like fragrances to smell different on different people."

"I wanted to make a perfume that's very sophisticated, very, very tailored and soigné — a scent that reveals itself as something rude," said perfumer Roja Dove, adding he was inspired by the fact that women wearing couture are told not to wear underwear, since the outfit's perfect fit makes it unnecessary. To reflect that "rudeness" — or sexiness — Dove added jasmine notes to the formula.

The chypre juice also includes notes of petitgrain, clary sage, ylang extra from Comeres, patchouli, lemon oil, chamomile, bergamot and myrrh, as well as absolutes of foin, tabac and rose.

The eau de parfum is packaged in a classic square pour bottle emblazoned with the Hardy Amies logo. The flacon is topped with a glass cap, which is secured with a leather chord.

An initial run of about 500 bottles will be produced and sold in the Hardy Amies flagship here, as well as in Space NK doors. A 50-ml. bottle goes for 125 pounds, or $221 at current exchange.

An advertising campaign may be in the works for a later date.
— Brid Costello

After Adjustments, Wella AG Earnings Soar
BERLIN — After adjustments for currency and consolidation effects, Wella AG saw sales and earnings rise in its core professional and cosmetics and fragrances divisions for the fiscal year ended June 30.Adjusted group earnings before interest and taxes jumped 24 percent to 313 million euros, or $382 million. Adjusted group sales rose 5.3 percent to 2.22 billion euros, or $2.71 billion. All dollar figures are converted from the euro at average exchange rates.

The figures for the group as a whole are no longer comparable with figures for the previous year due to the sale of Wella's North American subsidiaries and the transfer of consumer distribution activities to Procter & Gamble, Wella noted. In nominal terms, total group sales fell by 18.2 percent to 2.71 billion euros, or $3.31 billion. Sales of the professional and cosmetics and fragrances businesses dropped 8.5 percent.

The professional division, Wella's largest, achieved sales of 1.41 billion euros, or $1.72 billion, a gain of 4.7 percent when adjusted for currency effects and the sale of the North American business to P&G. The division's adjusted EBIT reached 227 million euros, or $277 million, an increase of 12.3 percent.

Adjusted cosmetics and fragrances sales rose 6.2 percent to 805 million euros, or $982 million, though nominal sales fell by 7.2 percent. Adjusted to eliminate special factors, EBIT reached 109 million euros, or $133 million, an increase of 44.3 percent in comparison with the previous year.
— Melissa Drier

Lauder Names Pungerscheg GM in Austria
PARIS — Gabriele Pungerscheg has been named general manager of Austria for the Estée Lauder Cos. For 25 years she worked at Unilever, and was most recently the president of European Designer Fragrances, based in Paris, for Unilever Cosmetics International. She was also vice president of marketing, European Fragrances, for Elizabeth Arden in Paris. In her new position, which begins on Oct. 1, Pungerscheg replaces Peter Kurtz, who will become part of the Estée Lauder Cos.' European board charged with pan-European issues and chairman emeritus in Austria.

Ulpat in New Chanel Post
PARIS — Evelyne Ulpat has been named managing director of Chanel's European fragrance and cosmetics division, a new post. For 10 years, she had been managing director of Chanel France.

In the new role, Ulpat oversees Chanel's activities in France, Germany, Austria, Spain, Switzerland, Russia, Italy and the Benelux countries. She reports to Dider Sabas, managing director for Europe for Chanel fragrance, cosmetics and fashion. Succeeding Ulpat as managing director of Chanel France is Franck Marilly, formerly managing director of Italy.

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