Lancôme, Aveda Shift Focus to Emerging Designers NEW YORK — Two of beauty's biggest brands are aiming to give a hand (not to mention hair, makeup and products) to emerging designers this season.
Lancôme and Aveda, both of whom have worked with heavy-hitting apparel brands during past seasons, are focusing their efforts on the not-so-well-known names this time around. It's a strategy that Shiseido also has followed for the past few seasons. Lancôme is exclusively working with emerging designers this season, while Aveda is focusing most strongly on the indies — and also tossing in a few mainstream brands, such as Badgley Mischka and Diesel, this time around.
Lancôme's choices this season are Project Alabama and Rag & Bone, both of which also are being supported by Aveda's hair stylists, as well as Behnaz Sarafpour, Peter Som and Thakoon. Gucci Westman, who is Lancôme's international artistic director, is the key makeup artist at all five shows.
"We felt we could bring more to the table with these designers than with established ones," said Eric Lauzat, president of Lancôme in the U.S., a division of Paris-based L'Oréal. The brand is exclusively working with emerging designers this season. "For example, access to an artist of Gucci's stature — for many of the young designers, that's not feasible financially [without help]. Also, It's all about inspiration. There is so much creativity and energy coming from the emerging designer community right now. It's exciting to help these new forces in fashion."
For her part, Westman says that she gets motivated by the mix of clothes, models and the themes of the various shows.
Aveda, which initially became involved with the New York shows during fall-winter 2004, is also supporting a number of indie designers this season, including Sandoval, Tibi, Linda Loudermilk and the aforementioned Rag & Bone and Project Alabama.
"We're approaching designers whose values overlap with Aveda's," said Jessica Barlow, the brand's director of fashion and media. "In particular, we're looking to support designers who are ecologically responsible, and we often have a better chance of finding those values among less-established designers. There's a chance to connect with and influence the designers in that way. We're not shutting out mainstream designers, but we're making more of an effort to also support the smaller brands." — Julie Naughton Lacroix's Colorful Tumulte PARIS — Inter Parfums hopes it has captured Christian Lacroix's flamboyant aesthetic in the designer's latest fragrance, dubbed Tumulte.
"We had to go after the real core values of the brand," said Philippe Benacin, president and chief executive officer of Inter Parfums SA. He described Lacroix's world as being "baroque, colorful and full of details."
To wit, Tumulte is a flurry of color and baroque touches. Designed by Federico Restrepo, its rounded red bottle is decorated with gold-colored print and topped with a clear, faceted cap. Advertising, which was created by Publicis, features Argentinean beauty Melissa Gonzales wearing an ornate gown.
Quest International's Françoise Caron mixed the floral scent, which has top notes of green Sicilian mandarin, freesia and rosewater; heart notes of rose from Grasse, heliotrope and iris, and drydown notes of musk and tonka bean.
The eau de parfum will be available as 30, 50 and 100-ml. sprays that are to retail for 35 euros, 45 euros and 65 euros, or $42.90, $55.20 and $79.70 at current exchange rates, respectively.
Industry sources estimate Tumulte will make 3 million euros to 3.5 million euros, or $3.7 million to $4.3 million, in ex-factory sales in the first three months. It is set to bow in some Western European, Eastern European and Middle Eastern doors this month. A further introduction there is planned for February and March 2006. — Brid Costello
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye