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DALLAS — Recognizing Hispanics as an underserved market, a Dallas dermatologist has developed four treatment products for people of Latin origin.
This story first appeared in the August 6, 2003 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Slated to ship in September to the mass market, Latin Orchid offers a cleanser, toner, moisturizer and body lotion formulated with herbs and botanicals.
Dr. Forrest Brown, 63, developed the line after Hispanic patients told him they did not feel comfortable using available products and voiced frustration that they could not find skin care made for their skin type. Brown investigated how Hispanic skin might differ from Caucasian skin and found that it tends to be oilier, is more prone to acne and gets darker when inflamed.
“Their skin can’t use the products devised for northern Europeans, who have relatively dry skin and small pores and don’t have the problem of hyperpigmentation,” noted Brown, whose practice is at Medical City in Dallas. “We recognized that we needed products that were not oily — a moisturizer that could put a protective film that was not the standard, oily film of most moisturizers. We wanted a toner that could really help control oil in the skin but not cause any inflammation at all.”
Latin Orchid uses nongreasy jojoba to moisturize and includes soothing chamomile, aloe vera and other botanicals as anti-inflammatory agents.
Its suggested prices are at the higher end of the mass market: The 2-oz. Facial Moisturizer will retail for $16; the 4-oz. Facial Toner for $12; the 4-oz. Facial Cleanser for $12, and the 8-oz. Body Lotion for $17.
Retailers are expected to discount them about 25 percent, said Keven Grantham, who has been pitching the line to stores as chief operating officer of Chateau Noblesse, Brown’s company, which makes and markets both Latin Orchid and Noblesse, a high-end treatment line introduced last spring.
“People are very intrigued by Latin Orchid,” he said. “We have a number of major companies looking at us.” Latin Orchid’s first retail account is the Army & Air Force Exchange Service, which plans to put the products in its 52 largest stores in time for National Hispanic Heritage month, which runs from Sept. 15 through Oct. 15. The company is also reportedly speaking with several major chain retailers. “We are talking to all major regional and national chains,” Grantham said. “Only a few have turned us down, and that was because they did not have a high Hispanic customer base.” He said he is close to a deal with a chain of 800 stores based in the Southeast, but he declined to name it.
The company has informational Web sites, latinorchid.com and laorquidealatina.com, that are expected to become transactional sites by Sept. 1.
Brown said he was unable to project sales of Latin Orchid, but he and Grantham pointed out Hispanic buying power is increasing along with its growing population, which currently represents 13 percent of the U.S. population, according to the U.S. Census Bureau.
Last May, Brown unveiled Noblesse, a line of seven products intended for use as a system that is being sold exclusively by Stanley Korshak in Dallas for one year. A 6-oz. cleanser is $40, as is a 6-oz. toner; a 15-g. eye cream is $85; a 50-g. day cream is $90; a 50-g. night cream is $95; a 1-oz. Vitamin C serum is $115, and a 1-oz. retinol cream is $115.
“For Noblesse, I looked at the legends of famous women renowned for their beauty — like Cleopatra took milk baths because the lactic acid softens skin, and Roman women used the tartaric acid in grape skins to soften skin,” Brown explained. “That was my model, and I thought, why not incorporate these things into products that will make a real difference?”
Among the many botanical ingredients in Noblesse are horse chestnut to tighten blood vessels and prevent dark under-eye circles and grape seed extract as an antioxidant.
Noblesse is doing well at Stanley Korshak, especially considering it is not supported by advertising, said buyer Martha Leonard. “Part of the appeal is that it’s dermatology based, and the customer understands it is more technological and medicinal,” Leonard said. “Once they try the sample set, they love the results.”
Bourjois Slims Distribution
NEW YORK — Rumors circulating in the market that Bourjois, the French color cosmetics line, might be pulling out of some of its Macy’s West distribution were confirmed Tuesday by both Bourjois and Macy’s West.
A Macy’s West source said Bourjois is narrowing its distribution in its doors but couldn’t confirm the exact number of doors or replacement vendors for the brand’s space. It is said that Paula Dorf’s eponymous cosmetics line will take over some of the freed-up space once the transition is complete.
“We value our experiences and successes in department stores,” said a Bourjois spokeswoman. “However, at this time, we want to free up some resources to focus our expansion in other profitable channels of distribution. As the brand continues to grow, we will consider all retail opportunities to strengthen and build Bourjois in the U.S.” The spokeswoman specifically mentioned doors such as Sephora and Ulta as possibilities.