By  on May 25, 2007

LONDON — When Jaeger London launches its debut signature beauty collection starting in August, it wants to be in women's boudoirs, handbags and even luggage.

The brand, a contemporary offshoot of 123-year-old British label Jaeger, will introduce a 21-unit collection of fragrance, cosmetics and toiletries arranged into three collections meant to meet the needs of a modern woman's lifestyle.

The Classic Collection comprises eau de parfum as well as bath-and-body products to be used at home; the Handbag Collection includes a solid perfume, lipstick, mirror and makeup bag, while the Travel Collection has smaller-sized versions of the fragrance and toiletries, along with Freshening Clothes Spray, Freshening Hair Spray and a travel bag.

The lineup, created under license by Juniper Brand Development, was fashioned to have a lifestyle orientation. Fabien Ho, creative director at Juniper, said when researching the project, executives were inspired by prints from Jaeger's archives and a poster from the Sixties with the tag line: "This is the coat that goes with the dress that goes with the hat that makes the Jaeger girl." They wanted to achieve a similar holistic approach to beauty.

"Belinda Earl [Jaeger's chief executive] said she wanted to capture the spirit of the Jaeger London woman and put it in a bottle," said Ho, adding Jaeger London has a slightly younger positioning than parent Jaeger's label.

"Jaeger London has strong luxury brand values. The clothing is still Jaeger with all the craftsmanship, but it's sassier and bolder. It's a quintessentially British superbrand," he added.

The move into beauty is part of an overall brand renewal strategy, which was kicked off when Jaeger was acquired by retail entrepreneur Harold Tillman in 2003 and reinforced with the 2004 hiring of Earl. Jaeger London, comprising fashion, accessories, jewelry and gifts, was introduced in September 2005.

"Jaeger has the potential to be a lifestyle brand," said Earl, adding fragrance is part of that repositioning. "[I felt] fragrance with a twist would tell the story in a broader way."

To that end, executives said for the beauty collection, particular attention was paid to maintaining strong links between the brand's fashion and beauty elements. Each of the collections' packaging, for example, features a different take on Jaeger London's signature monochrome color scheme. A standout print from each of the fashion line's seasonal collections will also be used for makeup and travel bags, and the Handbag Collection will be updated biannually with matching printed sleeves, which will be slipped over boxes. "The task was to create a seamless link with fashion," said Ho."We have encapsulated the iconic influence associated with Jaeger based on its solid heritage and have produced a lifestyle collection that matches the Jaeger strategy," added Jill Hill, managing director of Juniper.

While the beauty lineup is linked to the younger Jaeger London brand, executives said the product was conceived to appeal to Jaeger's older core customer, too.

"Mothers and daughters can wear it," said Ho, adding all the components of the line have the same scent — a floral juice concocted by International Flavors & Fragrances perfumer Dominique Ropion. Top notes include cassis and rose; jasmine and osmanthus notes are at the heart, while musky sandalwood notes are at the base. "It's a very clear and classic bouquet — clear, crisp and contemporary," said Catherine Mitchell, business development manager at IFF.

The Classic Collection 50-ml. and 100-ml. eau de parfum will go for 40 pounds and 60 pounds, or $79 and $118.50, respectively, at current exchange. A solid scent Handbag Collection compact will be available for 45 pounds, or $89. Other items in the lineup range from 12.50 pounds, or $24.70, for a lipstick, to 100 pounds, or $197.50, for a makeup bag filled with a selection of products.

The line will bow at Selfridges here as well as three of Jaeger's flagships in mid-August. It will then be rolled out to other department stores and Jaeger boutiques in the U.K. starting in September. International markets, including Western Europe and the Far East, will get the collection starting in 2008. In department stores where Jaeger has a concession, products will be sold both on beauty floors and with fashion.

Executives declined to comment on projections, however industry sources estimate Jaeger London beauty products will generate retail sales of 1.5 million pounds, or $3 million, in 2007. That figure is expected to treble in 2008.

A sampling campaign, including vials, will support the launch, as will single- and double-page advertising featuring product shots. "Iconic beauty sums up what we're trying to achieve here," said Ho. "It's the perfume that goes with the dress that goes with the jacket that goes with the shoes and bag, like in the original Sixties ad."

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