BERLIN — Despite darkening economic clouds and growing uncertainty about the next round of ordering, visitors to the upcoming Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin will find Germany’s fashion vanguard more professionally established than ever before.
Especially in Berlin, where the creative scene has long distrusted commerce, local designers have made moves to strengthen their businesses on multiple fronts. Marketing and sales efforts have been expanded; stationary and online shops have been opened; backers or new financial constructs have been found, and collections have been merchandised to better meet retailers’ needs while also sharpening their designer signature.
As for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the third edition, Jan. 28 to Feb. 1, will feature almost twice as many designers than its January 2008 launch. Twenty-four national and international collections will show on site at Bebelplatz, as well as highly atmospheric venues such as the botanical gardens, Hamburger Bahnhof art museum and the Zionskirche Church.
The mix is more varied than ever and promises to help stamp out Berlin’s stubborn reputation as a center of cool, relaxed — but essentially trashy — street style. The lineup includes solid but imaginative ready-to-wear collections like MBFWB newcomer Schumacher and fashion week stalwarts Hugo Boss, Strenesse Blue, Joop! and Michalsky.
Also showing are proponents of young but elegant designer wear such as Kaviar Gauche, another newbie at MBFWB this season, and Sisi Wasabi; avant -garde visitors like Bernhard Willhelm, Markus Lupfer and Felder & Felder; knitwear enthusiasts Lala Berlin and Allude; edgy entertainers along the lines of Marcel Ostertag or Kilian Kerner; bold constructivists such as Scherer González or the graphically oriented C.Neeon, as well as a bunch of student talents vying for the Becks Fashion Experience or Peek & Cloppenburg Designer for Tomorrow awards.
Of the numerous satellite events and trade presentations taking place concurrently with the runway shows, Premium will host around 850 exhibitors at the Old Post Railway station. The contemporary trade show will offer new “guest rooms” this season for multiple-brand agencies, as well as beef up its fledging Green and “Über Denim” areas.
Bread & Butter’s Karl-Heinz Müller is kicking off a selected denim event called Offshow 14 oz. 2nd floor, a platform of 11 brands carried in Müller’s denim and urbanwear shop of the same name. Though extremely small, this new project has set tongues wagging about a future return of B&B to Berlin. Müller said he had no comment.
Also part of Berlin’s fashion week activities: Projekt Galerie will present the off-scene in two gallery spaces in Berlin Mitte, while Showroom Mile in nine venues near the MBFWB tents on Bebelplatz is designed to allow the public to get a whiff of the city’s fashion spirit.
The global economic crisis is putting a damper on expectations for next season, but the mood among designers and show organizers is nonetheless upbeat. As Premium founder Anita Tillmann noted, “Berlin is always in a recession. We never have money in this city, and we get by. Actually, the rest of the world is now following Berlin.”
She continued, “There will always be bad or difficult times, but Berlin is getting better and better.” Buyers have said they’re coming, she said. “Maybe now for one rather than two days, and with a team of five, not 10.”
“We cannot change the economic situation, but as a start-up company we’re in the mode to invest, grow and improve,” said Michalsky managing director Arne Stoldt. “We haven’t scaled back but have increased our workforce instead, investing in sales and quality management.” This is in part possible because Michalsky, as well as Kaviar Gauche, share a new backer: the former Internet executive Volker Tietgens.
Sisi Wasabi is now a publicly held company, and as such has the means to launch a new sales offensive. “For me, the key is to find a balance between being special and commercial,” said Zerlina van der Busche, Sisi Wasabi designer. “In times of crisis, retailers still want special things but are scared of selling them.
“I’m working harder to make sure every piece that goes out is perfect,” she added. “I’ve found my style. But the next step is telling my story to the retailers.”
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia