There are two sides to this spring’s Paris girl: The one that’s looking for romance à la Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons and Veronique Branquinho, or the one that wants to live in rockstar sin, as in Hussein Chalayan and Ann Demeulemeester.

Comme des Garçons: Remember Rei Kawakubo’s intellectual sexcapade several seasons back? Could she, would she, play to the trend and revisit the motif? Rhetorical! Of course not. Sometimes Kawakubo is ahead of the curve; more often she bends a different way entirely. And in her Comme des Garçons collection, she did just that. In this season of sex and more sex, Kawakubo’s message was, well, the opposite of sex — heavy, dark layers of fabric, ingeniously arranged — and one fixed firmly in her Eighties roots.

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