NEW YORK — The spotlight may be on ready-to-wear during fashion week, but that doesn’t mean that accessories are out of the picture. Handbag and shoemakers attracted their own share of attention by presenting fall collections around town.
Amir Toos, formerly of Isaac Mizrahi and Badgley Mischka, launched Toos, a collection of embellished evening bags. Ruffled weasel, metallic brocades and vintage woven fabrics were adorned with intricate details such as embroidery, crystal beading and mink trim.
Elezar, a new handbag collection from designer Julie Lazarus and attorney Esther Barron, was also unveiled. Candy-colored stripes, cork with a metallic wash and upholstery fabrics made for a bright collection; shapes ranged from a practical computer bag to a small tasseled clutch.
Kate Spade’s fun breakfast for her fall collection featured her higher-priced Collect line of bags in exotic skins and metallic leather with chain shoulder straps. In her main collection, Spade introduced a selection of patent-leather shoppers in such shades as bright yellow and orange. This season also marks the first time the designer will wholesale her softgoods line of scarves, hats, mittens and headbands with feather bobs.
Vivia Ferragamo, granddaughter of Salvatore, brought her eponymous bag and shoe collection to the Bryant Park Hotel, hoping to break into some New York stores (it’s already available in Jill Kohl and Fred Segal in Los Angeles). Florence-based Ferragamo showed slouchy, metallic leather bags and shoes reminiscent of her grandfather’s work. Mid-heel suede and leather pumps had details such as fur, moon-shaped hardware and floral pom-poms.
Lambertson Truex’s fall preview featured its extensive collection of bags, shoes, belts, gloves and small leather goods. Highlights included clutches with intricate beading, unstructured Forties-style bags in flocked velvet and suede, and animal-patterned pony-hair bags and gloves.
Henry Beguelin’s handcrafted jackets, home goods, bags and shoes followed his signature rustic aesthetic. Snakeskin and crocodile-stamped leather was fashioned into boots and bags in a rich burgundy, olive and cognac palette. For fall, standout offerings included shoes with fur and spectator details and beveled leather hobos.
Georgina Goodman’s fall accessory presentation at SoHo House included pumps, flats and wedges made from a collage of materials such as suede, patent leather and fishskin. Platforms in velvet and chenille mixed with leather were done in silhouettes that reference the Thirties and Forties, and stacked heels and wedges had painted stripes.
This story first appeared in the February 14, 2005 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Meanwhile, Rado’s presentation at the Cooper Classics Gallery in the West Village was educational as well as stylish. To demonstrate the significance of watches in marriage rituals around the world, bride-and-groom mannequins were dressed in the traditional wedding attire of 10 countries. In front of each couple, a pair of the watches most popular in that country was displayed alongside a description of related wedding traditions. For example, in Japan, the bride’s parents offer a watch to the groom at an elaborate dinner before the wedding day. As part of the contract of an arranged marriage in Egypt, the bride gives a watch to her groom. Guests at the event, however, decided that Greek brides have it best. They’re showered with jewelry, starting with a ring and a watch, before the big day.