PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA
NEW YORK — There was plenty of eveningwear in evidence during Fashion Week — from utterly simple to sleekly tailored to highly experimental.
Rubin Chapelle designers Kim Chapelle and Sonja Rubin were in the last camp. The pair, known for their architecturally angled, quirky sportswear, wanted to explore new ground this season, and the result was a line of eveningwear that mirrored their rather intellectual sportswear. “We wanted to make intelligently sexy clothes,” Chapelle said. The results were amazing, tour de force cuts in a variety of colors, textures and lengths. Some of the looks almost defied description: a slouchy, asymmetrically wrapped black silk dress with one sleeve and chains across the torso; a pants dress, open at the sides to reveal fluid white chiffon. Then there was the side-slit, plunge-necked, black silk kimono with elbow-length puffed sleeves and a sporran. But some — such as an asymmetric silk dress that was floor-length in front and derriere-high in back — just didn’t cut it.
Shelly Steffee’s show at her boutique in the Meatpacking District wasn’t well-attended, which was unfortunate since she showed glamorous, intricately detailed chiffon evening numbers, beautifully tailored jackets and plenty of playful asymmetric tops.
Meanwhile, Ron Leal, who designs for Pamella Roland, kept things understated for spring, featuring some nice evening pieces. Take, for example, the sexy, second-skin pale blue satin skirt paired with a tight little white sweater and the flirty, flouncy satin khaki version shown with a blue top. The dresses and tops in loud yellow and blue prints, however, didn’t work.
Jackie Rogers, who has a loyal following for her signature sexy silk suits and dresses, added denim to the equation this season. It worked best in the form of a short, satin-trimmed jacket over a printed sarong. In fact, her strongest looks were her jackets and shirts, such as a dramatically cut shirt in white Gazar and the pintucked black silk blouse. There were some great dresses, too: a black stretch crepe, shoulder-tied gown and the fuchsia laser-cut, two-piece dance number. Rogers sums up her design philosophy by saying, “I don’t believe in fashion, I believe in style.” This, however, wasn’t a collection that really warranted a fashion show.Elsewhere, Yael Aflalo, known for creating slim jeans for Ya-Ya, stayed true to her reputation in her first New York presentation. The L.A.-based designer showed pieces that were slinky and sexy, with the pants the strongest looks. There were lean ones and cropped styles that were ruched and cinched at the ankles. Shorts were also prominent,shown in a variety of lengths, from rolled bermudas to tiny HotPants with pleated pockets. Aflalo also used fine-gauge knits for narrow, plunge-necked tops. Unfortunately, while the pants were utterly wearable, the revealing tops weren’t.
Slava featured retro-infused looks that suggested Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot in their heydays — high-waisted skirts and HotPants that emphasized the hips and derriere. The more streamlined shapes were flattering andfull of old-time glamour. The others — especially the costumey pouf skirts and the apron-print dresses — didn’t work. Paula Hian, for her part, continued to refine her collection with simplicity and charm. Her strapless white and black minidresses with cutout details and her little tops in bright colors were cute, sexy and simple. Cordero’s little jersey dresses were also straightforward — and sexy, especially the short white draped V-front dress. For her New York debut, French designer Anne Valerie Hash presented Degas-inspired numbers, as evidenced in her rose-colored silk tulle dresses.
Finally, Hanuk, who freelanced for Narciso Rodriguez and designed handbags under his own label, showed a designer-priced capsule collection of separates. Working almost exclusively in black, using broadcloth and poplin, he did great minimalist looks such as strapless dresses, cap-sleeved jackets and drawstring shorts. And, in a nearly blacked-out Lower East Side theater, Shenan sent out a nice assortment of tie-dyed T-shirts and railroad- and chevron-striped pants and dresses. Standouts included a kelly green canvas trenchcoat and a laced-front, tie-dyed romper.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)