Too many cooks in the kitchen is never a bad thing in the denim market, where there are as many recipes to success as there are jeans lovers. Here, a look at some of the best of the new crop, including the latest denim confections by established designers, labels new to the blue and imports.
Who: Michael Paradise and Michael Cassel
Maiden Voyage: Von Dutch Originals, which Cassel founded in 1999. Paradise was fashion director for North Beach Leather.
The Recipe: When Cassel and Paradise say vintage, they mean vintage. Their collection is a relaunch of 1895 denim line The Stronghold. “It was a regional brand to Los Angeles,” Paradise explains. “We thought, This is perfect. That’s where everybody makes their denim now.”
Stats: Eight silhouettes for women, from a cuffed capri to utility worker pants, all of which are constructed from selvage fabric; $285.
PEOPLE OF THE WORLD
Who: Yves Castaldi
Maiden Voyage: Castaldi’s CV reads like a list of who’s who of denim power players: Levi's, Wrangler, Diesel, Buffalo.
The Recipe: The signature diamond star embroideries, zigzag stitching and ultrafrayed fabric patch labels make for a denim collection with a craftier touch.
Stats: Fifteen different styles, including this season’s Western-themed items, complete with Native American embroideries; $160 to $210.
Who: Michelle Siwy
Maiden Voyage: After working for Maurice Malone in the late Nineties, Siwy was hired to revamp the year-old Fractal Jeans in 2002 into a more marketable collection.
The Recipe: Feminine fit (read: curves) meets vintage feed-sack cloth. The waistband dips in the front, the knee is sculpted and the hem curves slightly from back to front for better mobility.
Stats: Five styles for fall, named after Siwy’s sisters and sisters-in-law. The signature slim jean, however, is named after the designer herself; $130 to $185.CB BRAND FOR … CURVED BOTTOMS
Who: Leslie Ungar
Maiden Voyage: Apple Bottoms Jeans by Nelly.
The Recipe: Three months after licensing out Apple Bottoms Jeans by Nelly (the denim line she started with the multiplatinum-selling rapper), Ungar set her sights on developing a new denim collection that would be as equally derriere-friendly, but for the contemporary market.
Stats: Six different styles, from five-pocket to rhinestones; $130 to $250.
Extra Credit: The CB Brand is also host to charity foundation Style International Source, which raises self-image awareness in the face of eating disorders like anorexia and bulimia.
LIVE LIFE AND LOVE
Who: Karl Kani
Maiden Voyage: Casual sportswear label Karl Kani.
The Recipe: Denim tricked out with Buddha embroideries, Swarovski accents, crocheted patches and hand-painted floral motifs, among others. “If I were to compare it to a car, a Benz 500 or Bentley, where our jean is the car,” Kani says, “our embellishments are the rims you add on.”
Stats: 15 styles plus the dressier novelty items, like a denim tuxedo; $158 to $230.
Who: Lisa Kingsley
Maiden Voyage: Lisa Kingsley Clothing, a Bali-inspired collection of separates.
The Recipe: The look is sophisticated, clean and classic, with no streaks, abrasions, sandblasts or loud embroidery.
Stats: Nine looks, from the skinny jean to a ruffled pencil skirt; $130 to $249.
Who: Jeff Rudes and stylist Susie Crippen
Maiden Voyage: Paris 2000, a designer denim label Rudes established in the States in the late Seventies. In the early Nineties, he took a stake in the line A. Gold E with Adriano Goldschmeid.
The Recipe: Rudes is looking to re-create, in dark resin-treated stretch fabric, his 1976 slim-fit jean, while tending to one sole mandate: no excess hardware and/or embellishments.Stats: Four styles, from a 20-inch flare to a 14-inch skinny; $140 to $155.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)