MILAN — Blufin, the umbrella company for Blumarine, Anna Molinari and Blugirl, is adjusting its lineup.
Rossella Tarabini, the designer for Anna Molinari, will no longer design full-fledged collections for the brand. Instead, she will focus on custom-made, stand-alone pieces that highlight couture-driven workmanship. The pieces will be produced in the group's headquarters in Carpi, near Modena, Italy, along with the rest of the lines.
As part of her new course, Tarabini will bypass seasonal fads to concentrate on customized tenets based on the consumer's needs in terms of details and sizes. The designer was unavailable for comment.
Tarabini won't stage a fall-winter 2009 show in February, but is evaluating a small presentation in July during couture week in Paris.
During the past month, speculation had intensified that Tarabini was considering quitting fashion for personal reasons. A spokeswoman denied it.
On the Blumarine front, the brand has brought its accessories production in-house, ending its longtime accessories license with Marianelli.
Bags, footwear and small leather goods will now be designed out of the brand's Milan showroom.
"Given the market's demand for increasingly niche products and given the growth trend for luxury products, the goal is to reposition the three brands higher, diversifying the product, strengthening the image of the single brands and creating a dedicated retail network," said Blufin chief executive officer Gianguido Tarabini, who took the helm of the company after the death of his father, Gianpaolo Tarabini, in May 2006.
Anna Molinari will also need sharp scissors to cut the ribbons at various store openings on tap for 2008.
After the opening of a Blumarine unit in Miami next month, a New York store will open by the middle of next year. There are plans for outposts in Cannes, France; London; Tokyo; Dubai; Riyadh and Jeddah in Saudi Arabia; Doha, Qatar; Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, and in Korea.
Blumarine was launched in 1981 and is designed by Molinari, who is also the creative mind for the young and trendy Blugirl line, launched in 1995. That same year, Blufin launched Anna Molinari, designed by Molinari's daughter, Rossella Tarabini.Blugirl is investing in monobrand stores with 2008 openings planned for Paris, Kiev and Saint-Tropez. Tarabini declined to disclose investment figures for the retail rollout as well as a sales forecast for 2007. Blufin posted 2006 sales of 102.4 million euros, or $128.6 million.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast