Bohemian and Artsy – Sonia Rykiel, Hussein Chalayan, Ann Demeulemeester, Y-3
Sonia Rykiel: Ah, Saint Germain. Who channels your bohemian chic spirit better than Sonia Rykiel? And the Left Bank designer hit the right tone again in a feisty collection of flirty dresses, cheeky knits and fluffy furs. Rykiel has...
Sonia Rykiel: Ah, Saint Germain. Who channels your bohemian chic spirit better than Sonia Rykiel? And the Left Bank designer hit the right tone again in a feisty collection of flirty dresses, cheeky knits and fluffy furs. Rykiel has been on a roll. Over the past few seasons, she has given the house’s time-tested classics an element of contemporary cool. For fall, that meant high-waisted knit skirts paired with little black sweaters trimmed with rhinestones, a slinky sequined dress and ruffles on everything. Bows, at the neck or the bust of a dress, also abounded, as did flowers, which were knitted onto coats, tops and skirts. Silhouettes were sexy but slouchy, with plaid pants hanging low on the hips worn with matching jackets. For evening, long, sexy gowns in blue and violet velvet were decorated with rhinestones, giving yet another jolt to Rykiel’s fun frolic.
Hussein Chalayan: Though it was presented in the near-dark on a concave mirrored runway that all but promised a stumble, a crash and a call to 911, clothes-wise Hussein Chalayan’s fall show started with much promise. His look was intense — but thrillingly wearable. Coats sculpted out of tweed buzzed with artsy sophistication. Strictly tailored dresses cut away to reveal a film of Chantilly lace underneath were seriously sexy. Jackets spliced and layered with dizzying precision demonstrated Chalayan’s hard-core, undeniable talent.
What came next, however, was an exercise in willful weirdness. After dutifully giving reality its due, Chalayan flipped the switch and went into heady experimental mode with jackets that looked like giant topiaries carved from shag carpeting — or, as one editor put it, “clothes you can vacuum.” Why these oddities, which weren’t in keeping with the mood or spirit of the rest, had to come down the runway is anyone’s guess. But whatever the reason, Chalayan should have saved them for his 10-year anniversary retrospective at the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands instead.
Ann Demeulemeester: Fashion editors are divas? Not at Ann Demeulemeester’s show at the unheated Carreau du Temple. All gamely waited for the start of the show, battling the sub-zero cold and snow seeping through ceiling cracks by sipping hot mulled wine and wrapping themselves in the rough woolen blankets left on their chairs.However, when the show began, it seemed to make more sense. Perhaps the audience was meant to feel as forlorn as the models looked in their Mad Max-visits-a-Victorian-attic ensembles. The steady stream of ivory and black was a layered mass of wrinkled wool and distressed leather jackets worn with skinny pants hacked off midcalf. Shoulder harnesses fashioned out of cloth braiding and jet beads didn’t improve the situation, especially when they were strung with a fringe of ratty fur tails. Nonetheless, Demeulemeester has her steadfast fans who will no doubt work the collection’s wearable pieces, such as a distressed black leather and knit bomber or a twisted chiffon dress, into their wardrobes.
Y-3: “We’re going to rock New York,” enthused Michael Michalsky, creative director of Adidas, about the German sports company’s decision to move the presentation of its ongoing Y-3 collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto to the Big Apple, starting this fall. One was ready to believe him after the line’s high-energy runway presentation at the Opera Comique. Soviet Russia was the theme, with a choir of men in military dress singing “Babushka” while models paraded Yamamoto’s sleek, urban sportswear. Adidas’ signature stripes decorated everything from sweaters to leather blousons, and silhouettes were closer to the body than in recent seasons. The latter, Michalsky said, reflected a desire to develop more tailored looks for the line. To wit: jersey dresses were fitted, leather trenches were tough, and tight jeans rode low on the hips. But all eyes were on the models’ feet: the futuristic silver sneakers and clunky black boots are sure to excite the fashion flock.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)