Bohemian and Artsy – Sonia Rykiel, Hussein Chalayan, Ann Demeulemeester, Y-3
Sonia Rykiel: Ah, Saint Germain. Who channels your bohemian chic spirit better than Sonia Rykiel? And the Left Bank designer hit the right tone again in a feisty collection of flirty dresses, cheeky knits and fluffy furs. Rykiel has...
Sonia Rykiel: Ah, Saint Germain. Who channels your bohemian chic spirit better than Sonia Rykiel? And the Left Bank designer hit the right tone again in a feisty collection of flirty dresses, cheeky knits and fluffy furs. Rykiel has been on a roll. Over the past few seasons, she has given the house’s time-tested classics an element of contemporary cool. For fall, that meant high-waisted knit skirts paired with little black sweaters trimmed with rhinestones, a slinky sequined dress and ruffles on everything. Bows, at the neck or the bust of a dress, also abounded, as did flowers, which were knitted onto coats, tops and skirts. Silhouettes were sexy but slouchy, with plaid pants hanging low on the hips worn with matching jackets. For evening, long, sexy gowns in blue and violet velvet were decorated with rhinestones, giving yet another jolt to Rykiel’s fun frolic. Hussein Chalayan: Though it was presented in the near-dark on a concave mirrored runway that all but promised a stumble, a crash and a call to 911, clothes-wise Hussein Chalayan’s fall show started with much promise. His look was intense — but thrillingly wearable. Coats sculpted out of tweed buzzed with artsy sophistication. Strictly tailored dresses cut away to reveal a film of Chantilly lace underneath were seriously sexy. Jackets spliced and layered with dizzying precision demonstrated Chalayan’s hard-core, undeniable talent.What came next, however, was an exercise in willful weirdness. After dutifully giving reality its due, Chalayan flipped the switch and went into heady experimental mode with jackets that looked like giant topiaries carved from shag carpeting — or, as one editor put it, “clothes you can vacuum.” Why these oddities, which weren’t in keeping with the mood or spirit of the rest, had to come down the runway is anyone’s guess. But whatever the reason, Chalayan should have saved them for his 10-year anniversary retrospective at the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands instead.Ann Demeulemeester: Fashion editors are divas? Not at Ann Demeulemeester’s show at the unheated Carreau du Temple. All gamely waited for the start of the show, battling the sub-zero cold and snow seeping through ceiling cracks by sipping hot mulled wine and wrapping themselves in the rough woolen blankets left on their chairs.However, when the show began, it seemed to make more sense. Perhaps the audience was meant to feel as forlorn as the models looked in their Mad Max-visits-a-Victorian-attic ensembles. The steady stream of ivory and black was a layered mass of wrinkled wool and distressed leather jackets worn with skinny pants hacked off midcalf. Shoulder harnesses fashioned out of cloth braiding and jet beads didn’t improve the situation, especially when they were strung with a fringe of ratty fur tails. Nonetheless, Demeulemeester has her steadfast fans who will no doubt work the collection’s wearable pieces, such as a distressed black leather and knit bomber or a twisted chiffon dress, into their wardrobes.Y-3: “We’re going to rock New York,” enthused Michael Michalsky, creative director of Adidas, about the German sports company’s decision to move the presentation of its ongoing Y-3 collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto to the Big Apple, starting this fall. One was ready to believe him after the line’s high-energy runway presentation at the Opera Comique. Soviet Russia was the theme, with a choir of men in military dress singing “Babushka” while models paraded Yamamoto’s sleek, urban sportswear. Adidas’ signature stripes decorated everything from sweaters to leather blousons, and silhouettes were closer to the body than in recent seasons. The latter, Michalsky said, reflected a desire to develop more tailored looks for the line. To wit: jersey dresses were fitted, leather trenches were tough, and tight jeans rode low on the hips. But all eyes were on the models’ feet: the futuristic silver sneakers and clunky black boots are sure to excite the fashion flock.
“I grew up in New York but I hadn’t really experienced the city in any type of touristy way…This was probably the first museum I really explored and took the time to see,” said @haileybaldwin of the @whitneymuseum. On Tuesday night, Baldwin was joined by Jemima Kirke and more at the annual Whitney Museum Gala and Studio Party, which honored Lorna Simpson, Joanne Leonhardt Cassullo and Beth Rudin DeWoody. See more photos on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
Displayed starting this week at the @fashiontextilemuseum: An exhibition on designer @orlakiely titled “Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern,” which spans two decades and contains more than 150 pieces. “I want people to come away loving pattern and print. It’s something that makes you feel so good,” said the designer during a preview of the exhibit. Also on show are mood boards, samples, sketches and more. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
Exclusive: @dsquared2 signs fragrance licensing agreement with Euroitalia, with the first effort of the new partnership being unveiled in September. The brand will launch two scents – one for men and one for women – in Italy. Read our interview with designer Dean and Dan Caten on WWD.com. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@louisvuitton has officially renewed Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women's collections. "I am very pleased to open the next chapter of the story I started with Louis Vuitton almost 5 years ago," said Ghesquière, who first signed on to design the French luxury brand's women's line in 2013. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“I learned then and there that I had to figure out a way in life to maintain and preserve my sense of pride when I felt good about what I did or what I represented or created,” said @saintrecords on how being bullied for wearing capri pants inspired her to be the artist she is today. Knowles was at the 70th Parsons Benefit last night where she outbid the room for a Dapper Dan customized @gucci experience. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“There’s this amazing braintrust of people who know the whole universe so well. So we talked to them and they gave us more input,” said actor Alden Ehrenreich on playing the young Han Solo in “Solo: A Star Wars Story.” The cast was at NYC’s SVA Theatre last night for an advanced screening of the film, which hits theaters this week. #wwdeye #starwars #hansolo (📷: @aurorarosedecrosta)
@asaprocky spent nearly two hours in a Plexiglas box Sunday night at @sothebys putting himself through a series of “tests” to demonstrate the process of completing his new album called “Testing.” Get all the details and see all the pictures on WWD.com. #wwdeye
“I’ve struggled my whole life to find a bathing suit that fits me that doesn’t look like a maternity bra. I’m proud of the line because it’s an accurate representation of me rather than me putting on someone else’s clothes,” says @atlantabean of her swimwear collaboration with @piaarrobio, LPA X ATL. The two decided on a swimwear collab and increased the industry standard size for the pieces. Read more about the line — and our interview with de Cadenet Taylor and Arrobio — on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Dan Doperalski)