Bohemian and Artsy – Sonia Rykiel, Hussein Chalayan, Ann Demeulemeester, Y-3
Sonia Rykiel: Ah, Saint Germain. Who channels your bohemian chic spirit better than Sonia Rykiel? And the Left Bank designer hit the right tone again in a feisty collection of flirty dresses, cheeky knits and fluffy furs. Rykiel has...
Sonia Rykiel: Ah, Saint Germain. Who channels your bohemian chic spirit better than Sonia Rykiel? And the Left Bank designer hit the right tone again in a feisty collection of flirty dresses, cheeky knits and fluffy furs. Rykiel has been on a roll. Over the past few seasons, she has given the house’s time-tested classics an element of contemporary cool. For fall, that meant high-waisted knit skirts paired with little black sweaters trimmed with rhinestones, a slinky sequined dress and ruffles on everything. Bows, at the neck or the bust of a dress, also abounded, as did flowers, which were knitted onto coats, tops and skirts. Silhouettes were sexy but slouchy, with plaid pants hanging low on the hips worn with matching jackets. For evening, long, sexy gowns in blue and violet velvet were decorated with rhinestones, giving yet another jolt to Rykiel’s fun frolic.
Hussein Chalayan: Though it was presented in the near-dark on a concave mirrored runway that all but promised a stumble, a crash and a call to 911, clothes-wise Hussein Chalayan’s fall show started with much promise. His look was intense — but thrillingly wearable. Coats sculpted out of tweed buzzed with artsy sophistication. Strictly tailored dresses cut away to reveal a film of Chantilly lace underneath were seriously sexy. Jackets spliced and layered with dizzying precision demonstrated Chalayan’s hard-core, undeniable talent.
What came next, however, was an exercise in willful weirdness. After dutifully giving reality its due, Chalayan flipped the switch and went into heady experimental mode with jackets that looked like giant topiaries carved from shag carpeting — or, as one editor put it, “clothes you can vacuum.” Why these oddities, which weren’t in keeping with the mood or spirit of the rest, had to come down the runway is anyone’s guess. But whatever the reason, Chalayan should have saved them for his 10-year anniversary retrospective at the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands instead.
Ann Demeulemeester: Fashion editors are divas? Not at Ann Demeulemeester’s show at the unheated Carreau du Temple. All gamely waited for the start of the show, battling the sub-zero cold and snow seeping through ceiling cracks by sipping hot mulled wine and wrapping themselves in the rough woolen blankets left on their chairs.However, when the show began, it seemed to make more sense. Perhaps the audience was meant to feel as forlorn as the models looked in their Mad Max-visits-a-Victorian-attic ensembles. The steady stream of ivory and black was a layered mass of wrinkled wool and distressed leather jackets worn with skinny pants hacked off midcalf. Shoulder harnesses fashioned out of cloth braiding and jet beads didn’t improve the situation, especially when they were strung with a fringe of ratty fur tails. Nonetheless, Demeulemeester has her steadfast fans who will no doubt work the collection’s wearable pieces, such as a distressed black leather and knit bomber or a twisted chiffon dress, into their wardrobes.
Y-3: “We’re going to rock New York,” enthused Michael Michalsky, creative director of Adidas, about the German sports company’s decision to move the presentation of its ongoing Y-3 collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto to the Big Apple, starting this fall. One was ready to believe him after the line’s high-energy runway presentation at the Opera Comique. Soviet Russia was the theme, with a choir of men in military dress singing “Babushka” while models paraded Yamamoto’s sleek, urban sportswear. Adidas’ signature stripes decorated everything from sweaters to leather blousons, and silhouettes were closer to the body than in recent seasons. The latter, Michalsky said, reflected a desire to develop more tailored looks for the line. To wit: jersey dresses were fitted, leather trenches were tough, and tight jeans rode low on the hips. But all eyes were on the models’ feet: the futuristic silver sneakers and clunky black boots are sure to excite the fashion flock.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews