Patrick Cox doesn’t like to waste time. Just named creative director of France’s luxury footwear and accessories brand Charles Jourdan in January, he has already brought together a capsule collection of 40 pieces that he plans to unveil in London on April 23, coinciding with an exhibit at the Victoria & Albert Museum dedicated to photographer Guy Bourdin, who created Jourdan’s most memorable ads. "It seemed wrong to wait," explained Cox in an exclusive preview of his work Tuesday. "The Bourdin exhibit seemed an opportunity too good to pass up."

His first full-blown collection for Jourdan will not arrive until spring 2004, but Cox already has a firm grasp of where he wants to take the brand. "The company has always stood for boldness, architecture and geometry," he said, fingering the heel of one of his new shoes, a black patent stiletto detailed with crystal balls. Cox explained that he went Mod with his first designs, using silver, white and black with metallics.

"It’s somewhere between the Courrèges of the Sixties and Mugler and Montana in the Eighties," he said. "I tried to respect the history of the house without slavishly going into the Jourdan archive for everything."

Ten bags will be shown along with the 30 pairs of shoes. They will mirror the footwear0, with clear plastic handles, balls and other geometric details.

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