Born-Again Couture: Versace Looks For – and Finds – the Silver Lining, While Ferre’ Bustles and Buttons Up Dior
Long Gianni Silver
Gianni Versace is going to the Oscars for the first time this year, and he's got just the right collection for the trip. Versace keeps talking about being a "modern" couturier, and it has to be said that the...
Gianni Versace is going to the Oscars for the first time this year, and he's got just the right collection for the trip. Versace keeps talking about being a "modern" couturier, and it has to be said that the collection he presented Saturday night at the Ritz was the hippest of the Paris weekend.
This was a collection designed with a sure hand and a clear head. Gianni suffers from no fashion identity crisis: he loves high-voltage gllitz and glamour, and he doesn't give a fig if the old grandes dames disapprove. You ain't ever gonna see Marie Helene de Rothschild or Pammi Harriman wearing Versace, but you will find Diana of Wales, free at last, kicking up her heels in Gianni's ankle boots.
This season, Versace took silver - already the trendiest look in fashion - and made it sizzle. In fact, almost the whole show was dedicated to Shining On. There were silver stockings, silver shoes and even silvered faces; makeup artist Francois Nars said they were supposed to look moonlit. The shimmery silver theme continued into blouses, day skirts, trenchcoats, evening dresses and haute overalls. The best looks alloyed a touch of silver with less precious elements, like short black skirts with suspenders.
For the customer who wants something a little less flashy, Versace offered up sexy A-line suits in the prettiest pastels - some with a bit of silver trim. Versace shares Lagerfeld's love of big ballgowns, even if there aren't too many places to wear them these days. Gianni's tend to be in satin, wrinkled mousseline or a tortured combination of the two. But these extravaganzas were just runway exercises to prove that Gianni's atelier is as good as any in Paris. It is, and so was Gianni's collection.
Ferre's Flight of Fancy
He's trying as hard as he can, and sometimes Gianfranco Ferre gets it right at Christian Dior. Sometimes he doesn't. Monday, alas, was one of those disappointing days. Ferre gave in to his urge to overwhelm the audience, which included everybody from Anouk Aimee to Claude Pompidou. There were too many bustles and buttons and not enough of the crisp suits that have made Ferre the success he is. In fact, the best part of the collection were Gianfranco's drop-dead pantsuits, which not only fit in with the mood of Paris but showed what a great tailor Ferre is and why the Dior atelier is legendary for its quality and craftsmanship. When he kept his dresses simple, Ferre scored high. One knockout, called "Restauration," was short and chic, done in the simplest white cloque and silk crepe, with overstitched ribbon appliques. It's perfect for the Ladies Who Lunch - at the Relais Plaza, of course.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia