Born-Again Couture: Versace Looks For – and Finds – the Silver Lining, While Ferre’ Bustles and Buttons Up Dior
Long Gianni Silver
Gianni Versace is going to the Oscars for the first time this year, and he's got just the right collection for the trip. Versace keeps talking about being a "modern" couturier, and it has to be said that the...
Gianni Versace is going to the Oscars for the first time this year, and he's got just the right collection for the trip. Versace keeps talking about being a "modern" couturier, and it has to be said that the collection he presented Saturday night at the Ritz was the hippest of the Paris weekend.
This was a collection designed with a sure hand and a clear head. Gianni suffers from no fashion identity crisis: he loves high-voltage gllitz and glamour, and he doesn't give a fig if the old grandes dames disapprove. You ain't ever gonna see Marie Helene de Rothschild or Pammi Harriman wearing Versace, but you will find Diana of Wales, free at last, kicking up her heels in Gianni's ankle boots.
This season, Versace took silver - already the trendiest look in fashion - and made it sizzle. In fact, almost the whole show was dedicated to Shining On. There were silver stockings, silver shoes and even silvered faces; makeup artist Francois Nars said they were supposed to look moonlit. The shimmery silver theme continued into blouses, day skirts, trenchcoats, evening dresses and haute overalls. The best looks alloyed a touch of silver with less precious elements, like short black skirts with suspenders.
For the customer who wants something a little less flashy, Versace offered up sexy A-line suits in the prettiest pastels - some with a bit of silver trim. Versace shares Lagerfeld's love of big ballgowns, even if there aren't too many places to wear them these days. Gianni's tend to be in satin, wrinkled mousseline or a tortured combination of the two. But these extravaganzas were just runway exercises to prove that Gianni's atelier is as good as any in Paris. It is, and so was Gianni's collection.
Ferre's Flight of Fancy
He's trying as hard as he can, and sometimes Gianfranco Ferre gets it right at Christian Dior. Sometimes he doesn't. Monday, alas, was one of those disappointing days. Ferre gave in to his urge to overwhelm the audience, which included everybody from Anouk Aimee to Claude Pompidou. There were too many bustles and buttons and not enough of the crisp suits that have made Ferre the success he is. In fact, the best part of the collection were Gianfranco's drop-dead pantsuits, which not only fit in with the mood of Paris but showed what a great tailor Ferre is and why the Dior atelier is legendary for its quality and craftsmanship. When he kept his dresses simple, Ferre scored high. One knockout, called "Restauration," was short and chic, done in the simplest white cloque and silk crepe, with overstitched ribbon appliques. It's perfect for the Ladies Who Lunch - at the Relais Plaza, of course.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
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“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye