Born-Again Couture: Versace Looks For – and Finds – the Silver Lining, While Ferre’ Bustles and Buttons Up Dior
Long Gianni Silver
Gianni Versace is going to the Oscars for the first time this year, and he's got just the right collection for the trip. Versace keeps talking about being a "modern" couturier, and it has to be said that the...
Gianni Versace is going to the Oscars for the first time this year, and he's got just the right collection for the trip. Versace keeps talking about being a "modern" couturier, and it has to be said that the collection he presented Saturday night at the Ritz was the hippest of the Paris weekend.
This was a collection designed with a sure hand and a clear head. Gianni suffers from no fashion identity crisis: he loves high-voltage gllitz and glamour, and he doesn't give a fig if the old grandes dames disapprove. You ain't ever gonna see Marie Helene de Rothschild or Pammi Harriman wearing Versace, but you will find Diana of Wales, free at last, kicking up her heels in Gianni's ankle boots.
This season, Versace took silver - already the trendiest look in fashion - and made it sizzle. In fact, almost the whole show was dedicated to Shining On. There were silver stockings, silver shoes and even silvered faces; makeup artist Francois Nars said they were supposed to look moonlit. The shimmery silver theme continued into blouses, day skirts, trenchcoats, evening dresses and haute overalls. The best looks alloyed a touch of silver with less precious elements, like short black skirts with suspenders.
For the customer who wants something a little less flashy, Versace offered up sexy A-line suits in the prettiest pastels - some with a bit of silver trim. Versace shares Lagerfeld's love of big ballgowns, even if there aren't too many places to wear them these days. Gianni's tend to be in satin, wrinkled mousseline or a tortured combination of the two. But these extravaganzas were just runway exercises to prove that Gianni's atelier is as good as any in Paris. It is, and so was Gianni's collection.
Ferre's Flight of Fancy
He's trying as hard as he can, and sometimes Gianfranco Ferre gets it right at Christian Dior. Sometimes he doesn't. Monday, alas, was one of those disappointing days. Ferre gave in to his urge to overwhelm the audience, which included everybody from Anouk Aimee to Claude Pompidou. There were too many bustles and buttons and not enough of the crisp suits that have made Ferre the success he is. In fact, the best part of the collection were Gianfranco's drop-dead pantsuits, which not only fit in with the mood of Paris but showed what a great tailor Ferre is and why the Dior atelier is legendary for its quality and craftsmanship. When he kept his dresses simple, Ferre scored high. One knockout, called "Restauration," was short and chic, done in the simplest white cloque and silk crepe, with overstitched ribbon appliques. It's perfect for the Ladies Who Lunch - at the Relais Plaza, of course.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)