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Bottega Veneta

Plenty of designers pay lip service to breezy dressing, but this season Tomas Maier got down to the serious business of beating the heat.

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Plenty of designers pay lip service to breezy dressing, but this season Tomas Maier got down to the serious business of beating the heat.

Back when he designed spring, temperatures outside were peaking, “and my girlfriends were all complaining,” he said before the show.

The resulting collection oozed ease. Maier’s airy dresses in linen and silk played with the season’s loosened-up shapes — a major Milan trend — without ever looking sloppy.

Meanwhile, fluid jersey dresses, which he smocked and pleated and crisscrossed with elasticized embroidery, took on comfort dressing in a different angle.

While Maier’s look was clean and quiet — and almost too tame for the runway — that apparent simplicity was deceptive. Take Maier’s meticulous smocking, for example, a precision maneuver calculated to the millimeter so that his dresses could be pulled on and off without closures.

Naturally, in keeping with his chill theme, Maier made it all look a breeze.

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