NEW YORK — The city that never sleeps owes its high-flying rep to New Yorkers like Daniel Boulud, who arrived some 20 years ago and has hardly put head to pillow since. As the Lyonaise culinary force behind Daniel, Cafe Boulud and db Bistro Moderne, the chef’s gift for gastronomie has led to fame and fortune. But for every four-star review, every bowled-over foodie, Boulud has paid the price with his free time, spending his mornings prowling the Meatpacking District, sifting through clams or bagging sugar snap peas at the market and preforming nightly miracles in the kitchen.

With a montage of photos and recipes, an essay by Peter Kaminsky and bons mots served up by the man himself, "Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City," released this week by Assouline, chronicles a very busy day in the life of the chef as he shuttles among his three kitchens. At 6 a.m., bakers mix the bread dough as a special delivery of milk-fed chickens from Pennsylvania arrives at Daniel. The florist drops by with bursting pink peonies. Boulud dashes off to F. Rozzo & Sons to inspect the fish, then prepares a special lunch for wine guru Robert Parker at Cafe Boulud. And on and on, through the dinner service, ending — 35 pounds of butter, 103 glasses of wine and 17 hours later — at 1 a.m. when Boulud and members of his staff wind down at Sushi Hatsu with a late-night snack.

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