NEW YORK — The city that never sleeps owes its high-flying rep to New Yorkers like Daniel Boulud, who arrived some 20 years ago and has hardly put head to pillow since. As the Lyonaise culinary force behind Daniel, Cafe Boulud and db Bistro...
NEW YORK — The city that never sleeps owes its high-flying rep to New Yorkers like Daniel Boulud, who arrived some 20 years ago and has hardly put head to pillow since. As the Lyonaise culinary force behind Daniel, Cafe Boulud and db Bistro Moderne, the chef’s gift for gastronomie has led to fame and fortune. But for every four-star review, every bowled-over foodie, Boulud has paid the price with his free time, spending his mornings prowling the Meatpacking District, sifting through clams or bagging sugar snap peas at the market and preforming nightly miracles in the kitchen.
With a montage of photos and recipes, an essay by Peter Kaminsky and bons mots served up by the man himself, "Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City," released this week by Assouline, chronicles a very busy day in the life of the chef as he shuttles among his three kitchens. At 6 a.m., bakers mix the bread dough as a special delivery of milk-fed chickens from Pennsylvania arrives at Daniel. The florist drops by with bursting pink peonies. Boulud dashes off to F. Rozzo & Sons to inspect the fish, then prepares a special lunch for wine guru Robert Parker at Cafe Boulud. And on and on, through the dinner service, ending — 35 pounds of butter, 103 glasses of wine and 17 hours later — at 1 a.m. when Boulud and members of his staff wind down at Sushi Hatsu with a late-night snack.
"We actually did all the shooting in two days," he says. "But we wanted to capture the idea of everyday activity in the restaurants. It’s behind the scenes, a movie of a good New York day."
Of course, in its glossy pictorial form, Boulud’s day is also a little more glamorous than the real thing. "All the meetings and all the time I waste in the office, that’s part of our life," says the chef. "I wish I could just walk into the kitchen and forget all the rest. I get tangled into all that stuff, but that’s not in the book."
Instead, Boulud fills in the blanks with 75 recipes, including one for an elaborate stuffed saddle of lamb with chanterelles, swiss chard, pine nuts and tomato confit from the famed eight-course tasting menu at Daniel, as well as recipes for staff treats like pozole, a pig’s head soup that is eaten for lunch.It’s not the only secret Boulud imparts. In the index, he gives up the phone numbers for his local sources for everything from sel rose to truffles to artisanal goat cheese. He offers a recipe for the Hulla-Boulud martini and waxes nostalgic about meeting one of his sous chefs some years back.
But Boulud’s new book is really an ode to the raucous kitchens, with salsa music playing in one area and Led Zeppelin in another, where his creations come to life. After all, while Daniel customers swoon for Boulud’s asparagus, as it’s served with roasted halibut tail, Boulud prefers a more timeless preparation.
"The best is just grabbing an asparagus with your fingers and dipping it in the sauce," he says. "That’s the great thing about being in the kitchen. Nobody cares."
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty