Emerging talent Albino D'Amato hopes to dust off the vintage Italian brand VictorVictoria with a fresh approach.
Sergio Tegon, the industrialist who engineered the brand's comeback through his manufacturing company, Ca' da Mosto, tapped D'Amato along with former Balenciaga and Rochas sales director Eliane Quideau to help revive the brand. At VictorVictoria Quideau is an executive consultant in charge of brand development.
For the first time in years, VictorVictoria will hold a presentation during Milan Fashion Week, and later, in Paris. Tegon helped build the Moncler and Henry Cottons businesses under the Pepper Industries umbrella before selling the labels to the now-defunct Fin.part fashion group, and was Cerruti's ready- to-wear licensee.
"VictorVictoria has an important history, and because of this, it has a lot of potential," said Tegon. "However, the world has completely changed, and while the collection was very classic and basic, Albino will update it with a more fashion-oriented touch."
The brand and the company that made it, Sartorie Riunite, was founded by Giovanni and Paola Gamba in 1988. The Gambas sold to SINV SpA, which sold VictorVictoria to Ca' da Mosto two years ago. (SINV produces and distributes Moschino Jeans and See by Chloé, among others, and recently signed a deal with Yohji Yamamoto for his young line Coming Soon.)
Tegon froze the VictorVictoria project until the right designer came along. The executive said he's banking on VictorVictoria's brand awareness, which he says is "still strong," and D'Amato's sartorial cuts and exquisite fabrics, from wool crepe combined with silk or a mix of shantung and nylon. The designer also took inspiration from VictorVictoria's iconic color palette: light pastels — from powder pink to wisteria — and contrasting black and white.
D'Amato's first collection for VictorVictoria was for fall 2007. The pre-spring 2008 collection was purchased by such stores as Maria Luisa in Paris, Luisa Via Roma in Florence, Tad in Milan and Rome, Podium in Moscow, Blake in Chicago, Villa Moda in Dubai and Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong.
Tegon underscored the importance of developing a brand in such a venture. "We tried showing some historical staples, but they just didn't work," said Tegon. The brand continues to target an urban customer who is looking for artisanal product for daily wear, but Tegon said what appealed to customers in the Nineties is no longer desirable.Tegon also launched the Seventy brand in 1970. Based in the Veneto region, Ca' da Mosto — from the name of a 13th-century palace on Venice's Grand Canal — has sales of more than 40 million euros, or $55.4 million at current exchange, and produces about 800,000 pieces a year. Tegon said sales have been growing 17 percent annually since 1999.
D'Amato, a former assistant of Giambattista Valli at Emanuel Ungaro, who has worked with Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, launched his first namesake collection for spring 2005 and was a past winner of the Vogue and Alta Roma-sponsored Who Is On Next contest.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)