Christopher Peters thus described his and Shane Gabier’s utterly engaging Creatures of the Wind collection. He might have been speaking in general terms. Could words have a lovelier ring or express more succinctly the glorious promise of fashion?
At its core, fashion is driven by change: by the desire, the urge, the need for that which is new and which just might (in our shoppers’ reveries at least) become the conduit for magical transformation.
In reality, we buy the dress, the shoes, the whatever, without ever really transforming our lives, but the pretense offers happy distraction from the day-to-day, and the merch, a more than reasonable consolation prize.
The business of fashion is about change as well, and recently volatility has rocked its landscape. In a strong runway season, fall’s most seismic change happened off the catwalk: the abrupt dismissal of Raf Simons from Jil Sander, and the follow-up news that Jil Sander herself, available after the termination of her association with Uniqlo, would rejoin the house she founded. News of Simons’ dismissal shocked, as he was in the midst of one of the most glorious multiseason creative runs in recent fashion memory. Though his exploration of how couture elements, including some of considerable flourish, can be channeled into a modern sensibility was not initially intended as a Dior audition—when Simons embarked on the direction, for spring 2011, John Galliano was still ensconced at Dior and, rumored behavioral issues aside, no one could have predicted his impending crash—it proved to be just that.
On April 9, Simons was officially confirmed as Dior’s new creative director. After his spectacular Sander finale, it’s clear that, along with fueling the beauty and accessories ship, one essential mandate will involve making Dior relevant in an arena that was never Galliano’s forte, and in which his temporary successor, Bill Gaytten, never had the chance to make his own mark: daywear with currency.
In the season’s other major personnel change, Stefano Pilati was out as creative director at Yves Saint Laurent, replaced by Hedi Slimane. While Pilati’s eight-year tenure was marked by constant speculation about his imminent firing, his clothes never achieved the level of critical success the industry projects onto the hallowed Saint Laurent label. However, in this accessories-obsessed time, Pilati proved himself a master at connecting with women with high-drama shoes and bags, a legacy with which Slimane will have to compete as he assumes creative control.
Both Pilati and Simons comported themselves elegantly as they showed their final collections after having been publicly pink-slipped. Exactly why the houses of Sander and Saint Laurent handled the dismissals so sloppily remains unexplained, but pales compared to the way Gaytten was strung along for more than a year by Dior.
Still, fashion does move on—often positively. With terrific collections from, among others, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto, the renewed buzz about London seems duly justified. In Paris, certified star Haider Ackermann continued his intricate ways with cut and color. In New York, it was delightful to see the attention given the Creatures guys, with their offbeat, homespun sensibility, as they take their place among the more established—and terrific—likes of Alexander Wang, Jason Wu and Joseph Altuzarra.
One thing that remained constant: Fashion’s proven greats continued to lead. Karl Lagerfeld journeyed to the Earth’s core, a fantastical place set with rich-hued semiprecious spires and stalactites, and came away with a fabulous proposal for Chanel sportif—everything worn over pants—that should ignite the ongoing Chanel frenzy all the more. Celebrating his 10th anniversary at Lanvin, Alber Elbaz dared to be joyful and unconcerned with a singular fashion focus. Ralph Lauren offered a touch of Downton Abbey amidst a bounty of elegance.
With a cheeky refreshment of her mid-Nineties graphics, Miuccia Prada proved that while countless others have tried, nobody does Prada better than Prada. Marc Jacobs showed two dazzlers, his luxury-class-only rail excursion for Louis Vuitton and, in New York, a hybrid Dickens-Pilgrim inspiration that left his audience both awed and wistful.
And, in a collection that had the industry talking—once those in attendance recovered their facility for speech—Commes des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo absolutely slayed ’em. For her premise about a future of “two dimensions,” she sent out a parade of girls in giant clownish geometrics and vibrant color. It was beyond audacious. But audacity without technique is mere adolescent posturing. As is her way, Kawakubo conceived, cut and crafted her clothes to exquisite perfection. Pure fashion at its very best.
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)