MILAN — Should tea and scones start being served in between shows during Milan Fashion Week?
A handful of British designers, following the example of Burberry, are giving up London to present their fall collections in Milan, from Pringle of Scotland to Daks, Gregory Parkinson to Basso & Brooke and Sinha-Stanic (although the last two houses also are showing in London).
At the same time during fashion week, which runs Feb. 19-26, British designers will be feted at the Triennale, with designs from houses such as Clements Ribeiro, Frostfrench, Julien Macdonald, Aquascutum, Mary Quant, Vivienne Westwood and Zandra Rhodes.
On the Italian front, Bottega Veneta will hold a runway show for the first time, on Feb. 21. “I feel it is time for a show this season in order to be able to see the silhouettes — but in a way that still makes sense with the Bottega Veneta brand,” said Tomas Maier, the company’s creative director. “That’s why it will be a very intimate atelier type setting — 300 people of two rows.”
The week also points to another fashion trend: showing outside of the official calendar in an effort to secure the time deemed most convenient for the house, thus overlapping with other designers going along with the chamber of fashion. Bottega Veneta, together with Roberto Menichetti (who is showing his women’s collection in Milan for the first time), Jil Sander and Moschino, are some of the fashion houses that are showing at the same time as other maisons. “Our design team really wanted to show during the day,” said a Jil Sander spokeswoman. “As there were no daytime slots available, we had to pull out of the calendar.”
Jil Sander will likely hold two small shows on Feb. 23 around 9 a.m. “We wanted a more private setting,” said the spokeswoman.
Other new Italian entries this season include Belstaff, which also will show on Feb. 21. The week officially kicks off that day with shows such as Blugirl, Anna Molinari’s younger line; Just Cavalli; Emporio Armani; Pollini by Rifat Ozbek; Prada; Bottega Veneta, and Borbonese. Menichetti showed his men’s collection in Milan last month and introduced his namesake collection for women in New York last fall. Referring to Menichetti’s decision to show in Milan, a spokesman said: “It was simply a matter of timing and organizational problems, as the shows were moved up a week.” The spokesman noted the designer wanted to secure a spot early in the week, as he will need to go to Paris for the Celine show (which he also designs) on March 4.
Hermès is launching a Laundromat pop-up shop in NYC - dubbed Hermèsmatic - where customers can bring their old scarves to be dip-dyed by an expert. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @donstahl)