Serkan Sarier continued to evolve the sporty treatment of a couture aesthetic he has established for his nascent label Brood, now in its third season. A photograph of John Ninomiya flying by way of mylar balloons inspired Sarier’s spring collection, presented Monday at the Nicholas Robinson Gallery in New York. Sarier reinterpreted the harness used to strap Ninomiya to the balloons as a yolk on his dresses and jackets that were fitted around the bodice, also featuring cutouts, athletic zippers and cord effects. Jackets were cut from sturdy silk faille and worn over sheer chiffon parachute skirts that were draped into a long, lean line. With combinations of soft ombrés (ivory and purple, orange and blush) and patterns meant to imitate the prismatic way light reflects off water, the collection basked in a modern, youthful glow.

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