NEW YORK — The mirror in Roger Vivier creative director Bruno Frisoni’s pristine Paris office only allows a visitor to see her feet.
“I can judge what I do by seeing the image in the mirror because it gives you a distance,” Frisoni said of the reflective surface that only runs along the bottom portion of his office wall. The designer described his office during a Fashion Institute of Technology Fashion Conversation last week, seated alongside brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange and director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT Valerie Steele.
Frisoni and de la Fressange were also in town for a cocktail party at the French Embassy that toasted “Roger Vivier,” a book published by Rizzoli New York that came out earlier this month at the French Embassy here. Karen Elson performed at the fete, which was DJ’d by Harley Viera-Newton and attended by the likes of Tabitha Simmons, Charlotte Sarkozy, Olivier Theyskens, Coco Rocha and Anh Duong. Frisoni signed copies of the book, available at all 14 freestanding Roger Vivier doors, as well as select bookstores worldwide.
Since his appointment at the creative helm of the French footwear brand a decade ago (also when it was acquired by Diego Della Valle), Frisoni has reinterpreted many of the iconic shoes — such as the buckle pump Catherine Deneuve wore in “Belle de Jour.”
“I redesigned it [the buckle shoe] because I thought it was looking a bit retro,” Frisoni said to a packed house at FIT, noting that when it comes to pumps, a straight heel with movement — a Vivier signature — is “always right.”
De la Fressange interjected: “Everybody is doing pumps, but the quality of the leather and the shape make the whole difference.”
This year has also seen the reintroduction of the comma shaped heel, first designed by Vivier in 1963 when he left Dior. For the 50-year-old style’s relaunch, Frisoni created limited-edition versions with the original 7-cm. heel in mink and embroidered satin, as well as a higher, 10-cm. heel in fabrications, such as silver mirror leather, satin and houndstooth.
Frisoni praised Vivier for his sense of awareness — and how advanced he was design-wise for his time — as Vivier received as much acclaim for intricately embroidered medieval shoes as he did for over-the-knee Kinky boots worn by Brigitte Bardot. He was also the first named designer to work with the house of Dior in the Fifties and has been dressing royals for decades.
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.
@beyonce chose a custom gown by @falgunishanepeacockindia for mother @mstinalawson 's second annual Wearable Art Gala last night. The gown, which took 10 days to make, was inspired by Nubian warrior queen Amanishakheto. Reporting by @hernameislex . #wwdeye 👑 🐝#beyonce
After dressing @justintimberlake for his Super Bowl halftime performance last month, @stellamccartney has designed the star’s "Man of the Woods" tour wardrobe. Timberlake will be wearing a mix of pieces from McCartney’s fall men's collection as well as custom designs and items from his own closet. #wwdfashion