NEW YORK — The mirror in Roger Vivier creative director Bruno Frisoni’s pristine Paris office only allows a visitor to see her feet.
“I can judge what I do by seeing the image in the mirror because it gives you a distance,” Frisoni said of the reflective surface that only runs along the bottom portion of his office wall. The designer described his office during a Fashion Institute of Technology Fashion Conversation last week, seated alongside brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange and director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT Valerie Steele.
Frisoni and de la Fressange were also in town for a cocktail party at the French Embassy that toasted “Roger Vivier,” a book published by Rizzoli New York that came out earlier this month at the French Embassy here. Karen Elson performed at the fete, which was DJ’d by Harley Viera-Newton and attended by the likes of Tabitha Simmons, Charlotte Sarkozy, Olivier Theyskens, Coco Rocha and Anh Duong. Frisoni signed copies of the book, available at all 14 freestanding Roger Vivier doors, as well as select bookstores worldwide.
Since his appointment at the creative helm of the French footwear brand a decade ago (also when it was acquired by Diego Della Valle), Frisoni has reinterpreted many of the iconic shoes — such as the buckle pump Catherine Deneuve wore in “Belle de Jour.”
“I redesigned it [the buckle shoe] because I thought it was looking a bit retro,” Frisoni said to a packed house at FIT, noting that when it comes to pumps, a straight heel with movement — a Vivier signature — is “always right.”
De la Fressange interjected: “Everybody is doing pumps, but the quality of the leather and the shape make the whole difference.”
This year has also seen the reintroduction of the comma shaped heel, first designed by Vivier in 1963 when he left Dior. For the 50-year-old style’s relaunch, Frisoni created limited-edition versions with the original 7-cm. heel in mink and embroidered satin, as well as a higher, 10-cm. heel in fabrications, such as silver mirror leather, satin and houndstooth.
Frisoni praised Vivier for his sense of awareness — and how advanced he was design-wise for his time — as Vivier received as much acclaim for intricately embroidered medieval shoes as he did for over-the-knee Kinky boots worn by Brigitte Bardot. He was also the first named designer to work with the house of Dior in the Fifties and has been dressing royals for decades.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)