WWD.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/burberry-has-a-new-man-in-town-533583/
government-trade
government-trade

Burberry Has a New Man in Town

This fall, Burberry will introduce a male follow-up to its Burberry London women's scent that was launched earlier this year with its beauty license holder Inter Parfums SA.

LONDON — Burberry London has a mate.

This fall, Burberry will introduce a male follow-up to its Burberry London women’s scent that was launched earlier this year with its beauty license holder Inter Parfums SA.

Like its female counterpart, Burberry London for Men is linked to the brand’s apparel collection of the same name. To create a crossover between the worlds of scent and style, the new fragrance’s bottle, like the women’s version, is wrapped in a swatch of fabric in Burberry’s signature check and features a Burberry London clothing label on its outer packaging.

“It’s the merging of fashion and fragrance to create a mini-Burberry accessory,” said J.D Ostrow, marketing director for Burberry Fragrances, at the scent’s London launch.

Painting the world plaid has been paying dividends for the brand’s fragrance business. Industry sources estimate it will grow by double digits in 2006 to generate $560 million at retail.

“The entire franchise is on fire,” said Nicholas Munafo, executive vice president of sales and marketing of P&G Prestige Products Inc., a U.S. division of Procter & Gamble, which distributes Burberry and Inter Parfums fragrances.

Industry sources forecast Burberry London for Men will contribute $60 million at retail to the Burberry license in the four months following its launch. In the U.S. alone it is expected to generate $25 million to $30 million during its first year on counter, according to those sources.

“I think it will overtake Brit,” said Munafo.

Like the successful Brit franchise, which first bowed in 2003, the Burberry London duo celebrates the 150-year-old brand’s heritage, which is indelibly connected to London.

“When one thinks of London, one thinks of Jermyn Street and Savile Row and its wonderful history of sartorial excellence,” said Ostrow.

That concept is underscored by the new scent’s fabric-clad flacon, which was designed by Fabien Baron under the creative direction of Burberry designer Christopher Bailey.

Advertising for the new scent also continues a theme kicked off with the women’s Burberry London launch. Like the earlier scent’s ads, the new one is a collage of black-and-white pictures featuring Rachel Weisz and Ioan Gruffudd shot both as a couple and alone against London backdrops. Gruffudd, a Welsh actor who has had feature parts in movies such as “Fantastic Four,” “Black Hawk Down” and “King Arthur,” has a more prominent role in the men’s campaign, which will break as single and double pages in September and October magazines.

“For the Burberry London for Men’s advertising campaign, we capture a similar look and feel as for the women’s concept, in a more straightforward way,” said Bailey in a press release. “The images of Ioan and the city of London have a sense of realness that people can connect with.” The Burberry London bottle is featured in color in the ad, which was shot by Mario Testino.

A dual campaign, highlighting both fragrances in a spread, will also be part of the launch push, which industry sources estimate is backed by a marketing and advertising budget of $15 million to $20 million.

In a first for Burberry fragrances, a television spot is also planned. “We have recognizable personalities [fronting the fragrances],” said Ostrow, of the small-screen debut. “The concept is also very close to the Burberry brand.”

“There’s momentum really behind the brand in general,” added Munafo. “This way, we take things up a notch to the next level.”

A launch date for the TV campaign, which will run as 10-, 15-, 20- and 30-second ads, has yet to be finalized.

Global sampling is to include 2-ml. vials and eight million scent strips.

Burberry London for Men’s woody ambery juice, concocted by Givaudan’s Antoine Maisondieu, is also meant to weave in Burberry’s heritage.

“For the Burberry London for Men fragrance, we wanted to capture a refined and elegant character, but at the same time, a very masculine side as well,” said Bailey in the statement.

“When I began working, I wanted to reflect the essence of the brand in a perfume for the modern contemporary English gentleman,” said Maisondieu.

The scent’s top notes include bergamot, lavender, cinnamon leaves and black pepper. At its heart are mimosa flower, port wine and leather notes.

“I decided on a luxury leather accord as it’s reminiscent of English clubs,” said Maisondieu, adding mimosa flower gives the mix a modern edge. The juice’s drydown comprises guaiac wood, oakmoss, opoponax and tobacco leaf notes.

“The tobacco note gives [the fragrance] a really different dimension,” said Philippe Benacin, president and chief executive officer of Paris-based Inter Parfums SA. “It really adds something to our portfolio.”

The eau de toilette will be available as 30-, 50- and 100-ml. sprays that will retail in the U.K. for 23 pounds, 29 pounds and 40 pounds, or $42.70, $53.80 and $74.30, respectively; in the U.S., they will retail for $42, $47 and $65, respectively. Its ancillary line includes, in U.S. prices, an After Shave Spray, $47; After Shave Emulsion, $42; Hair & Body Wash, $30, and a Deodorant Stick, $24.

Burberry London for Men will bow in 300 U.S. doors at launch, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s, as well as in the U.K., in September. In the U.S., it will be in 1,500 doors by spring and 1,800 in total by fall 2007. Europe is set to get it in September and October of this year, followed by Asia.