LONDON — Christopher Bailey is revisiting the Burberry archives.
The brand's creative director has delved into its history, pulled out a handful of its signature references and created the Burberry Icons Collection.
The new, accessories-driven collection bows for fall and marks Burberry's 150th anniversary. It will become a permanent part of the Burberry offering with regular additions each season.
"I started with the icons that immediately came to mind — the quilting, the check, the rivets and the Prorsum knight," said Bailey during a walk-through at the Burberry showroom here near Piccadilly Circus. "This collection is about looking at Burberry's past from a different point of view rather than getting too entrenched in the history. There's a traditional base, but it's translated in a modern way."
Bailey has mixed and matched icons, marrying the classic quilted Burberry jacket with the trench. The result is a quilted trench — in leather or cotton — with a beaver or fox fur collar. He's also taken the classic D-ring shape, which comes from the belt buckle on the trench, and used it as a detail on shoes, bags and silk scarves.
The collection features small, quilted leather accessories, watches with the D-ring detail, silk separates with a buckle print and quilted caps with the house's signature check. Sunglasses bear the gold Prorsum logo in the lower corner.
The handbag range features exotic skins and quilted leather, along with D-ring buckles, and leather-covered padlocks and rivet details. Retail prices range from $350 for a small bag to $2,125 for a larger one in exotic skin.
About 85 percent of the collection is made up of accessories; there are 200 accessories stockkeeping units.
Bailey has also played with moods, pairing a functional gabardine trench with oversize fox or beaver collars and D-ring leather belts. Gabardine was the ultraperformance fabric developed by Thomas Burberry in 1880.
"I love combining the two different worlds of outdoor and city," said Bailey, "and the disheveled elegance of it all — the luxe fur collar and the outdoorsy trench. This collection is not so much about the pieces themselves but the attitude with which they're worn."He's also brought new personality to the trench, crafting it from wrinkly oxblood leather so soft that it gently sculpts around the body. That leather trench features horn buttons.
Prices range from $2,950 for a tailored trench with detachable fur collar to $6,560 for a black-gloss, leather-quilted, fur-trimmed one.
The collection will have its own designated area in all Burberry stores and also will be sold through the company's key wholesale accounts. It's meant to be worn both with the Prorsum line and the more commercial London line.
Some of the items — mostly bags — have already been incorporated into the fall ad campaign, and some bags were featured as part of the Prorsum show in Milan last month.
The collection, which will be on display in Burberry's New York showroom on Tuesday, will be sold in all Burberry stores and through the brand's key wholesale clients.
But by no means is Bailey finished with the concept. He said there's a lot more he can do with Burberry's icons.
"The trench alone has so many different aspects. We'll look at how it's tied and belted, at what we can do with horn buttons and checks. There are lots of different expressions we can work with."
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion