Guests at Calvin Klein didn't realize they were in for a ride, but on Thursday, Francisco Costa charted a direct course for Helmut-land.

He opened with several subtle dresses layered in wafting gauze, but the unsubtle nature of his homage to Helmut Lang was stunning. From the show space to the clothes themselves, Costa echoed a very specific phase in Lang's career: his artsy, ethereal stage. Dresses fluttered with too-familiar streamers and were cut in a very distinctive palette that had some wondering aloud if Helmut's longtime collaborator Melanie Ward was backstage (she wasn't).

It's unfortunate for Costa that, after stepping out of Calvin Klein's shadow, he'd step into Lang's. But simply put, he should know better.

But for those who don't know better, or who just don't care, there were attractive pieces to be found. Working a sportif spacey edge, Costa's layers arced across the body revealing or veiling stretch underpinnings below. Thick scuba fabric and industrial mesh took the look techno. A boxy croc coat upped the ante on big luxe.

And yet, like the song says, it's never as good as the first time.

To view Calvin Klein's full Spring 2007 Collection, click here

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