NEW YORK — The antidote to trade show sameness. That's the way Capsule bills itself, and it seemed to deliver just that. Some have likened the trade show's role to that of other contemporary streetwear shows established a few years ago: It provides a home to on-the-rise designers, without big brands or massive booths.
"We scoured the market," said Edina Sultanik, co-founder of BPMW, the branding agency that produced the event, held July 23 and 24 at the Angel Orensanz Foundation center. "We wanted designers who did more than just create product. We wanted lines that told a story, that were progressive and contemporary."
Exhibitors were chosen by Sultanik and other BPMW co-founders, Minya Quirk and Deirdre Maloney, along with the Capsule advisory board of industry leaders, buyers, bloggers and editors, including David Fisher of Bloomingdale's and Christene Barberich of Refinery29.com. The accessories exhibitors were an eclectic mix of recognizable names alongside lines that have only been around for a few months. Super sunglasses, for instance, though the collection is only six months old, are already in 100 stores internationally and have been worn by musicians Daft Punk and CSS. The retro-looking, handmade acetate sunglass collection features two styles in 38 color combinations that wholesale from $48 to $69 at Pink Milano in Italy.
Mosely Tribe continued its role as the streetwise brother to Oliver Peoples, with sunglasses made from titanium, metal alloys and acetates that wholesale from $60 to $150. At the show was a new style of shield that comes with replaceable lenses.
Colab, for its part, takes an unusual approach. The company collaborates with artists from around the globe, turning their designs into limited edition sunglasses, with a maximum run of 1,000 pairs for each style, that wholesale between $80 and $105 at BPMW. The inaugural collection boasts designs from artists Perks & Mini of Australia, Eboy of Germany, Geoff McFetridge of the U.S., Rockin' Jellybean of Japan and Neasden Control Centre of the U.K.
Georgi Philip Pecenikov's jewelry collection, Toy Me, strikes a slightly nostalgic cord. Pecenikov said he wanted his Milan-based line to exude fun, to make customers smile and touch and play with each piece. Inspired by childhood toys and objects from the Seventies and Eighties, the mostly silver and rhodium-plated pieces, with touches of color in the form of paper and rubber bands, do that. The jewelry wholesales for approximately $50 to $150 at Cyana Lab in California, Pink Milano and Nitty Gritty in Stockholm.It's hard to believe that Gabriel Urist, who's still in his 20s, already has been designing jewelry for 10 years. He began in high school at Michigan's noted Interlochen Center for the Arts, and is now based in New York. Urist's collection consists of both custom and reproducible pieces in sterling silver, gold and diamonds. His main-collection pendants, wholesaling from $35 to $3,500, range from sports logos and boots to pretzels, birds and stilettos.
The newest jewelry collection at Capsule was Digby & Iona, which was launched a year ago by Aaron Ruff. The Brooklyn-based designer finds inspiration in regional fauna and vintage romance, to produce a sterling silver and gold collection, which includes birdcages, antlers and vintage keys, which wholesale from $50 to $120 at Archetype Showroom.
In a category all its own, Posso the Spat is a collection of, as its name suggests, spats. Designers Marylouise Pels and Vanessa Giovacchini unveiled their line last March during Los Angeles Fashion Week at The Collective Show. The spats, wholesaling from $50 to $110 at Atlas Showroom, are made of Italian leather, sometimes crocodile-embossed, along with snakeskin and lambskin. The styles range from small pieces that fit just around the foot to those that extend all the way to the knee, and the taller pieces have wires that allow the spats to be shaped into unique designs.
Along with the accessories-only lines, others worth checking out are Ksubi's Space Age sunglasses at Peoples Revolution, as well as the pointed sneakers and heels from Umbro by Kim Jones shoes at Press Office and Ted Baker, respectively.
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24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews