French designer Jean Charles de Castelbajac, whose signature line is known for its bright colors and sharply tailored jackets, is out to build his U.S. business with a new diffusion collection, Ko & Co.
De Castelbajac recalled in a recent interview in Paris that in the Eighties, while his clothes were colorful, he felt surrounded by people wearing black.
"Now that there's a reawakening of life and color, I believe it's the right moment for me," he said. "I've always had faithful customers in the U.S., but I've wanted to expand that."
The fabrics in the new line are inspired by everyday household items. De Castelbajac uses toweling, French terry, waffle cotton and canvas. The fabrics are predominantly white cotton or undyed beige cotton, accented by primary color piping, buttons and pockets. Some styles are made in a beige cotton "curtain lace." Silhouettes include a boxy oversized jacket, short skirts, a tunic dress and a tank top. Jackets wholesale from $150 to $225; skirts are $55 to $65; dresses are $75 to $85; trousers are $58 to $65, and T-shirts are $35.
A line of coordinating accessories includes boots, shoes, bags and socks.
Represented in the U.S. by Eleanor Rankin, with a New York showroom at 712 Fifth Ave. at West 56th Street, the line is targeted to specialty stores. Rankin said she's planning to take the line to the Fashion Coterie trade show this February, and then on the road for some trunk shows. She said she's hoping to have wholesale volume of $750,000 to $1 million with the apparel and accessories in the first year.
AVA AT ANNETT
When Annette Breindel, president of Annett B.'s showroom in New York, wanted a line of suit separates to wholesale for less than $100, she didn't wait for it to come to her; she went out and made it happen.
Breindel approached Elizabeth Allison, president of Ragtag Inc., a pattern-making and consulting firm here, about making her own line of sportswear.
"The time was just right," said Allison, who said she is designing the line and having it manufactured in New York. "Because I've done so much consulting and product development, we have very cordial relationships with factories here." The first group, slated to be shipped for Feb. 28 delivery, uses a rayon and wool Bedford cord. The colors are wheat, marine blue, celadon, ivory and black. Styles include an Empire waist single-button long jacket, a single-breasted jacket with back self-belt, a short double-breasted jacket with angled hem and a long Nehru-style jacket. Coordinating bottoms include a 16-inch wrap culotte, a romper-style bottom and two tailored pants styles. All styles are available in all colors. There is also a small group of coordinating pieces in a polyester triacetate georgette, including a tank top, a box-pleated skirt, and short flippy skirt.Jackets are $93 to $107 and bottoms range from $38 to $61, Allison said. For the first shipment, there are 20 styles in the line and Allison said she hopes to see it grow to about 25 per group. She said she hopes to ship six to eight times a year.
Breindel, whose showroom also represents Anna Sui, Beth Schaeffer and Elizabeth Wayman, among others, said the new line is targeted to specialty and some smaller department stores.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion