French designer Jean Charles de Castelbajac, whose signature line is known for its bright colors and sharply tailored jackets, is out to build his U.S. business with a new diffusion collection, Ko & Co.
De Castelbajac recalled in a recent interview in Paris that in the Eighties, while his clothes were colorful, he felt surrounded by people wearing black.
"Now that there's a reawakening of life and color, I believe it's the right moment for me," he said. "I've always had faithful customers in the U.S., but I've wanted to expand that."
The fabrics in the new line are inspired by everyday household items. De Castelbajac uses toweling, French terry, waffle cotton and canvas. The fabrics are predominantly white cotton or undyed beige cotton, accented by primary color piping, buttons and pockets. Some styles are made in a beige cotton "curtain lace." Silhouettes include a boxy oversized jacket, short skirts, a tunic dress and a tank top. Jackets wholesale from $150 to $225; skirts are $55 to $65; dresses are $75 to $85; trousers are $58 to $65, and T-shirts are $35.
A line of coordinating accessories includes boots, shoes, bags and socks.
Represented in the U.S. by Eleanor Rankin, with a New York showroom at 712 Fifth Ave. at West 56th Street, the line is targeted to specialty stores. Rankin said she's planning to take the line to the Fashion Coterie trade show this February, and then on the road for some trunk shows. She said she's hoping to have wholesale volume of $750,000 to $1 million with the apparel and accessories in the first year.
AVA AT ANNETT
When Annette Breindel, president of Annett B.'s showroom in New York, wanted a line of suit separates to wholesale for less than $100, she didn't wait for it to come to her; she went out and made it happen.
Breindel approached Elizabeth Allison, president of Ragtag Inc., a pattern-making and consulting firm here, about making her own line of sportswear.
"The time was just right," said Allison, who said she is designing the line and having it manufactured in New York. "Because I've done so much consulting and product development, we have very cordial relationships with factories here." The first group, slated to be shipped for Feb. 28 delivery, uses a rayon and wool Bedford cord. The colors are wheat, marine blue, celadon, ivory and black. Styles include an Empire waist single-button long jacket, a single-breasted jacket with back self-belt, a short double-breasted jacket with angled hem and a long Nehru-style jacket. Coordinating bottoms include a 16-inch wrap culotte, a romper-style bottom and two tailored pants styles. All styles are available in all colors. There is also a small group of coordinating pieces in a polyester triacetate georgette, including a tank top, a box-pleated skirt, and short flippy skirt.Jackets are $93 to $107 and bottoms range from $38 to $61, Allison said. For the first shipment, there are 20 styles in the line and Allison said she hopes to see it grow to about 25 per group. She said she hopes to ship six to eight times a year.
Breindel, whose showroom also represents Anna Sui, Beth Schaeffer and Elizabeth Wayman, among others, said the new line is targeted to specialty and some smaller department stores.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye