Beene there, done that. And "that" is Einar Holilokk's beautifully executed, eccentric collection that channeled the spirit of the late Geoffrey Beene. Like his mentor, Holilokk was inspired by couture fabrics, and this season's "moody" colors such as black, along with beige and camel. When asked — yet again — if he would ever expand the business to wholesale, chief operating officer Russell Nardozza explained that there are not enough skilled craftsmen to make more clothes at the existing level of quality, and that quality would simply be compromised if they were sold for less. For spring, Beene's 57th Street studio housed the usual display of mannequins, dressed in clothes that, in their relative simplicity, belie the intricacies of cut and detail that are the inherent requisite Beeneisms. These clothes are not about a trend or a news bulletin, but instead are classic, signature looks. Some of the best were the strapless gown with jeweled bra; a flared, double-faced wool coat with quilted shoulder detail; color-blocked sundress sheaths in wool crepe and jersey, and a slim silk and raffia suit.

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